The Philippines

I leave the South East Asian peninsular behind and head east, landing in my twelfth country, earning myself another stamp in my passport.

I'm traveling with Katie, my roommate from tour número two, and we've been excited to experience the Philipines since we decided to do it around two weeks before.

This time, we decide to do it properly. We book ourselves a flight in, a flight out seven days later, one night in Manila - the capital - and that's it. We didn't want to love somewhere and have to leave, or hate somewhere and be stuck.

This country is made up of over seven thousand tiny islands, all with fairly accessible airports or ports. Flying is definitely the best option. Honestly. Listen to what I'm saying.

Every island has azure water, pristine white sand beaches, corals that divers around the world fly in for and crystal clear skies. That's about where the fun ends.

Our week has certainly been the adventure we were looking for.

Our hostels are horrible - even when we pay more for a nicer hotel - it's still horrible.

We're stopped from flying because I have a bloodshot eye - despite catching an infection on a Philippino flight one day earlier.

 

We're lied to and scammed - much more than in South East Asia.

No one will help you for nothing. We can't get directions, people don't give us straight answers, men leer at us if we ask for help and staff in hostels/airports/bus terminals say they don't know the answer to our questions.

For example, Katie drops her phone down a drain in the road. The first guy she asks for help wants sexual favours in return. The second guy helps, but tells her he can't get it, and as she walks away, fishes it out and slips it into his pocket. Wonderful people I tell you.

Is it because the Philippines is the road less travelled? I'm not sure. Where everyone else on the continent has been fairly friendly and welcoming, these islands are not the same.

False advertising is normal. It doesn't go where it says it goes. If it says it's free, it's not. If they say they have wifi they don't.

And you have to pay for everything.

To enter an airport there's a fee. There's then a baggage handling fee, an excess baggage fee, a terminal fee, and maybe even sometimes they'll charge you when they scan your bag.

Taxi or tricycle drivers will quote you a price and then add onto it as the journey progresses - a toll fee, or if they take a wrong turn they want you to pay for their mistake.

Restaurants will add on both service charge and vat - for serving you bad food and standing scowling at you whilst you eat.

When you travel by ferry, you have to pay a terminal fee, a ticket fee, the ticket, the seat and then for some guy to take your luggage on. 

Everything mounts up. Nothing is as much as you think it will be. The Phillipines is expensive.

Because I'm not allowed to fly, our very first day proves interesting. Manila is horrible, it's easiest to transit through so by all means do, but if you can help it, don't stay there.

We get to our hostel at 1am and leave again at 7am. We then don't get to our next destination until 12 noon the next day. We take a taxi to the bus station, a two hour bus to the coast, an hour ferry to the next island, a four hour van to the south of that island, wait around 4 hours, take a 4 hour midnight ferry to the next island, sleep somewhere for 4 hours and then take a ten minute boat to the island we actually wanted to be on. 

Did you follow that?

We could have flown for £20 and it would have taken one hour. Such is life.

Boracay is beautiful. It has all the aforementioned, along with lovely restaurants, hotels and bars. It really is stunning. Shame about the people. And our hostel definitely wasn't one of the lovely hotels. And nor was it cheap. 

We spend two days here relaxing before finally managing to find wifi for long enough to book a flight to the next place. There are boats, buses, taxis and planes all involved again, but this journey only takes 9 hours instead of 29.

Bohol is our next spot. It's home to the worlds smallest primate - the Tarsier monkey - and the UNESCO world heritage site "The Chocolate Hills."

We arrive in our 'nicer' hotel to find that they aren't on the beach - rather a rock face - they also aren't even near a beach, their wifi doesn't work at all, they have no laundry service (when they said they did,) they are a good forty minutes from anything, including a restaurant and even a taxi, and their own restaurant has nothing in it.

Now, don't get me wrong, wifi is not the most important thing, we can certainly chill and enjoy ourselves without it, but when we have nothing else booked and need to do research, we need wifi. The hotel is a shambles, but I guess by this point we're just not expecting anything less.

I feel like the Philippines just isn't a backpacker spot. If you're on your honeymoon, or have plenty of money to stay in a five-star resort where your bank balance means you get better service, then it would be a completely different country. But can't you say that about everywhere?

If you're a diver, here is where you need to be. If you want, you can hire mopeds and motorbikes and escape into the enchanting jungle and countryside - visit the chocolate hills and monkeys and all sorts of wildlife like we did - or just chill on a beach that doesn't seem real. It is beautiful. I just didn't like it.

We leave our hotel in Bohol at 10.45am and arrive in our hotel in Sandakan, Borneo, at 2.45pm the next day. This time it was a ferry, a delayed flight, a 5 hour wait, another flight that I was once again nearly told I couldn't embark on due to a not-fully-healed eye infection (THAT I GOT IN YOUR BLOOMIN COUNTRY,) a longer wait and then a six hour bus. We've become pros at this walking zombie thing.

Puka beach, famous for its "inside out" seashells and beautiful landscape. Around 20 minutes in a tuk-tuk but so worth it as its tourist free most of the time. Chill out in this paradise.

The Chocolate Hills in Bohol are 1262 volcanic deposits that depending on the season change in colour. In dry season they are brown, and do look like mountains of chocolate, but in glorious rainy season they are a beautiful lush green colour. An absolute sight to behold and an incredible part of the island.

Not everyone's cup of tea I can imagine. I still think they're the ugliest thing I've ever seen. The Tarsier is the worlds smallest primate and is native to the Southern Philippine Islands and Borneo. It's a nocturnal animal, so when you visit it's sanctuary you have to be quiet and considerate. None of us are happy when we're disturbed from our sleep are we?

So as we enjoy our short time in the beautiful Malaysian island of Borneo, I hope you're enjoying December!

Where has the year gone, eh?

These LonelyPlanet warriors are signing out! 

S x

And the Winner is...Laos

We depart Vietnam in Hanoi's not-so-busy airport, and take an hour flight to the capital of our next country. It's the turn of Laos. Thailand's little brother is the smallest of the four bordered countries in this part of the continent, and also one of the poorest. After years of fighting and turmoil - when the Thai rulers wanted it as part of their Kingdom - they are now tucked under the wing of their more advanced neighbours. 

Whilst we arrive in a capital, it's so vastly different from Vietnam that we're not really sure what to make of it. It isn't bustling, it's not lit up and it's certainly not loud. The drivers are courteous and not a single horn is sounded. There are barely any streetlights and you can see thousands of stars glittering above. But more than that, it's chilled, peaceful. Something Vietnam will never be.

We only spend one night and one morning in the capital, hiring a tuk-tuk to take us around the city's main sights and temples. We board a bus at around noon that takes us through beautiful countryside and stunning scenery four hours west to Vang Vieng.

Once a tiny town in the middle of nowhere, Vang Vieng has blossomed from tourism. It's the half-way stop between Vientiane and the old capital Luang Prabang, and the industry in Laos has made full use of it. Nearly all travellers and tourists stop in the town to partake in adventure sports and quirky activities. You can choose from hot air ballooning, kayaking, mountain biking, quad biking, cliff diving, absailing and much much more. The most famous of course, is tubing.

Basically, you sit in the rubber ring from the inside of a tractor tyre and float down the Nam Song river. My group and I walk into the countryside and situate ourselves on such a tube, instead however, we go caving. The only way in, is by sitting your ass in a donut and floating in through the tiny mouth of the cave. Ropes have been anchored so you can pull yourself through the darkness and our guide tells us spooky stories and the history of the area. It's way more fun than I was expecting.

We're treated to a BBQ lunch as others cave after us and some fly past on ziplines above our heads. Later that day we clamber into two-man kayaks and make our way down the river. This is the more popular route for tubers. There are bars situated on both sides of the river and you are brought in by "waiters" who throw plastic bottles on rope out to you on the middle of the river. All bars have beer-pong tables, basketball hoops, table tennis and all myriad of fun things to do. Some even have slides for you to launch yourself - in your donut- back into the river. We pull our kayaks in to one such bar and play some pong, drink some beers and soak in the fantastic weather before kayaking the rest of the ten kilometres back to the hotel.

Vang Vieng is situated in the middle of a mountain range and is easily the most stunning place we've stayed. Sunsets, sunrises and generally all day, the views are magical. Laos, you're winning.

We have dinner by the river two nights in a row and leave the town behind the next morning. We only have 150km to drive to Luang Prabang but because of the mountains, it takes over 7 hours to get there. We stop at two separate "service stations" that are atop two of the highest peaks and soak in the panoramic views over the country. You definitely won't appreciate Carlisle services after you see these pictures.

Luang Prabang is the old capital, recently given UNESCO World Heritage Status, and is situated nearer the Thai border so that the King could be easily reached in times of trouble. Once again, it doesn't feel like a city. There are no streetlights and barely a traffic light to be seen. Still drivers are courteous and patient, and the people are so friendly.

The day after we arrive here we speed out into the countryside once more for a very special reason. The elephant park is around an hour from the city and we spend the morning feeding, riding and bathing these special animals. They are calm, happy to be around people, carefree and so so happy when they are in the river. The 14 elephants at this particular park have been rescued from families who have worked them their whole lives. Now, they spend their days eating and splashing around in the river. It's a hard life. There are two babies, at two and five years old, and the rest are all adults who all let us feed them, climb onto them and ride them down to the river. They play about in the murky waters of the Mekong with us on their backs, sitting happily in the cool water on a hot November day.

We sadly leave the elephants behind in the afternoon and instead head to Luang Prabang's waterfall park. Kuang Si waterfall is the highest in the area, with three tiers leading to a fifty metre drop into spectacular azure pools that then flow downstream. The pools are cool due to the shade from the surrounding jungle, but spectacular to swim in. I can safely say I've never sat under a waterfall before. Another thing ticked off the list.

Sadly our time in Laos comes to an end. We spend our last two days cruising down the Mekong River towards Thailand. We spend nine hours the first day, reading, playing games, catching up on sleep and even writing a blog post or two. We stop off at a home stay over night where we are treated to a home cooked meal and clean beds in the middle of the jungle. Ten hours again the next day takes us to the border where we leave this stunning country behind. On entering back into Thailand it's another stamp in my passport, and the freedom to stay for another thirty days. Plenty of time to explore paradise!

Instead of revamping the capital's airport runway, the Americans used the money to build the "Peace Gate." It has never been completed, and is only slightly smaller than the Arc de Triumph in Paree. You can climb the seven stories to the top for a panoramic view of Vientiane.

Looking suave in helmets and head torches for our caving experience.

We stopped on the top of a mountain range at a service station. The toilets had no outward facing walls. Basically the best view you've ever had whilst peeing.

There are many elephant rescue centres in both Laos and Thailand. The one we visited had two babies and twelve adults, ranging from two years old to fifty seven. These elephants have spent their lives working in forests and hauling large loads. Now they eat for 20 hours and bath in the Mekong River up to three times a day. 

Kuang Si waterfall with its crystal clear waters and ice cold swimming lagoon. Perfect on a thirty degree November afternoon.

There are markets in every city in every country, and they all sell the same stuff, but in Laos they are considerably cheaper and a much better experience for shopping. No one shouts at you, shoves items in your face or quotes you a price six times more than it should be. Ah, Laos, you are so chilled.

We sailed along the Mekong river, which snakes along the border of Thailand and Laos, in a slow boat for two days. Owned privately, we were cooked for and kept.

On the middle night of our voyage we stopped off in a village in the middle of the jungle. By taking us there, our tour gives back to a community in need of extra income. We pay for food and board and we also visit a school with seventy enrolled children to give simple gifts. Two guys in my group - Max on the left and Hendrik in the right took them two soccer balls. And then got beaten!

Fun facts:

1. Not a single car horn will be sounded. Ever. In Asia this is alien. Drivers will wave you across at crossroads and you will feel like a queen.
2. Laos is still very conservative so if visiting make sure you have enough clothes that cover both your legs and shoulders for the duration of your stay. Vests and shorts are not liked here.
3. The government allowed China to start a deforestation project, but in 2012 they put an end to it. They have the largest condensed area of jungle and wanted to keep it that way. Go Laos!

I loved Vietnam, I even loved Cambodia, they are all special in their own ways, but there was something about Laos that captured my heart. It's stunning in every way, from scenery to people and from the peace to the price. Laos is definitely the cheapest of these four countries and I can assure you, you won't regret coming here. I feel sorry for the friends who have skipped this beautiful place and concentrated on the other three. You missed out guys!

Anyways, it's time for this backpacker to log out. It's been a long three weeks and I'm looking forward to chilling out in Thailand's second biggest city. Chang Mai, let's be having you!

S x

Chapter 2: Bangkok & Cambodia

My final day in Hong Kong is spent in a laid back kind of way - and it sets the precedent for the days that follow. My group - minus two - have one last meal together in a pizza parlour in Causeway Bay, just around the corner from our hotel and we spend a couple of hours chatting and reminiscing before saying our final goodbyes. 

There are a handful of us heading the same way - in fact I booked myself onto the same flight to Bangkok as three groupies - and I know I'll see them a few more times in the coming days. But four members head further out of Asia, two head home to Australia and the UK, and the rest are making their way south to Kuala Lumpur and Australasia.

Four of us head to Hong Kong International around dinner time, and I become increasingly appreciative of the fact they were booked on this flight because I never would have gone for it otherwise. The flight isn't even half full and we have almost the whole middle section of the aircraft to ourselves. It's more luxurious than the eleven hour flight I took from Heathrow to Tokyo! I'm impressed! We settle in and watch our respective films, dig into a complimentary dinner and before we know it we're landing in Bangkok. 

It's country or state number 7 for me and I have officially never been in this part of the world before. Thailand brings me into the fray of South East Asia and I'm excited to get going. The weather is atrocious when we land (have you spotted a running theme yet?) and we go our separate ways to our accommodation. It's almost Hong Kong all over again as the taxi pulls up in front of a hotel I'd never in my wildest dreams have imagined staying in. Before I go any further, I'd like to add that it only cost £40 a night, so I didn't go crazy on my spending, but £40 a night in Bangkok gets you what looks like 5 stars and it certainly feels like it too!

The lobby is all marble, plush sofas and sweeping staircase. The lifts and corridors are carpeted, mirrored and spotless. My bed is the biggest thing I've ever seen, my mini bar is impressive again, my bathroom has a bathtub to die for and my view is out over the hotels rooftop pool and bar. Once again, booking myself into a hotel has proved worth it.

I had obviously got so used to sleeping on Chinese sleeper trains and horrible hostels that I wake in the middle of the night right on the edge of my mattress as if I had no space to stretch out. I quickly rectified the situation and starfished for the rest of the night.

Unfortunately Barclays block my bank card and I land in Bangkok with no access to money, so my first night is more stressful than I'd like it to be, and my phone bill is horrendous, but after two fights with them it was finally sorted. 

I meet up with friends from my last group the next morning and we spend a few hours bartering our way down Khoa San Road before rewarding ourselves with a cocktail. This backpacker is happy to report she now owns 'elephant pants' - normal shape and design - two new tops and several new badges to be sewn on to my bag, all for less than £7! Bargain.

In the afternoon we all head back to my hotel and we hang out by the pool for a few hours. It's exactly the recuperation I was hoping for, and it was nice to do it with company. The rest of my day continues in much the same way with a long shower and pamper session, a free cocktail in the hotel bar and a small Thai dinner that I treated myself to.

The next day is the big one. It was time to meet the new group, and I have to do my best to push Team Sticky Rice to the back of my mind because I can't go into a new setting, sizing people up against the last lot I met. 

There's only nine of us this time, a fairly small number on average and way smaller than I've become accustomed to. We're a mixed bunch, with Americans, Germans, English, me and a Norwegian, and despite there only being nine, not all of us are doing the full tour. It's not a late night with my new group or with Team Sticky Rice's reunion as it's an early start the next morning.

We're up at 6am for our journey across the border. We cross into Cambodia around 11am and arrive in the city of Siem Reap around 3. The poverty on the journey in is obvious, but the second we cross Siem Reap's city limits the five star hotels and resorts spring up out of the dusty ground, barely four hundred yards from what I've just witnessed. It's shocking, but it happens in every city and country so I guess I'm not altogether surprised.

We have just enough time for a shower and a nap before we're whisked by Tuk-Tuk (my new favourite mode of transport) to a local farm where we are treated to a homemade dinner and a tour around the local area. We stop off at Siem Reap's Night Market for a wander before heading to bed early again.

Day two is a 4.30am start. We shuffle onto a private bus and make the twenty minute journey to Angkor Wat, the most famous destination in all of Cambodia, to watch the sunrise from behind the ancient temple. Recently voted the best place in the world to visit, and the one place you must see before you die, I quickly agree with whomever voted. I spent an absolutely magical day exploring it and Ta Promh (the temple now affectionately known as the 'Tomb Raider Temple') Pictures and info below!

Eleven hours later we're back to the hostel for a nap before the fun begins. A scheduled quad bike ride becomes way more interesting as a weather front (again) moves in over Siem Reap. Only in South East Asia can you quad bike through rice fields in typhoon rain and thunder and lightning and it still be 'safe.' We all got stuck at least once, one of the girls broke a shoe in the mud and I absolutely destroyed a good t-shirt, but it was easily the best fun I've had in forever!

We finish one of the longest days with dinner and dirt-cheap cocktails on 'Pub Street' in the centre of the city.

Day three is a travel day. It's seven hours by bus from Siem Reap to the country's new(ish) capital Phnom Penh (the last King moved the capital as Phnom Penh is further from Thailand, because at the time, they were the invading force.) We just spend the afternoon and evening chilling by the pool and enjoy dinner and some drinks together because day four we spend at The Killing Fields and Phnom Penh's Genocide Prison. It's a gruesome, horrific morning, and all of us are quietly reserved and sombre as we walk around what really should be a mass cemetery or memorial. Instead The Killing Field is preserved in such a way that there are signs telling you not to walk on the bones, and there are glass cabinets showcasing victims clothing and bone fragments. I took no photos because I felt like the whole thing was disquieting and slightly disrespectful. I understand needing to learn from the past, and I know Auschwitz is a destination for travellers too, but the almost staged feeling of the Killing Field made it all the more horrendous to experience. 

The Genocide Prison (S-21) is located in the city centre and is no less harrowing. You are invited to stand in prisoners cells, with real photographs on the walls of how they were found (and how the prisoner had been left tortured and dead) complete with blood spatters still on the walls and ceilings. 17,000 men and women were tortured at S-21 for information on their friends and families, as the Pol Pot regime wanted to rid the country of everyone with education or standing, before they were driven to The Killing Fields at night to be killed. Only seven men survived, escaping when the Vietnamese soldiers liberated the country in 1979, and two of them are still alive. Both of them are forced to come back to S-21 every day to sell books and paintings on their experiences in order to feed their families. All of the money from the ticket sales goes directly to a private company and none of it is seen by victims or even the places themselves. Again, the whole thing is made more uncomfortable than it already is.

As it's such a heavy morning, we take the rest of the afternoon to ourselves and chill by the pool with some drinks. We then treat ourselves to our most expensive meal (still only $7) on the river front. While Siem Reap is bigger in population, it's dirt roads and shack houses make it feel less developed than the country's recent capital and I really start to love Phnom Penh too.

The next day is a four hour bus to the coast. Sihanoukville is Cambodia's deepest trading port, hacked out of the jungle in the 1950s before the troubles. It's white sand beaches and blue ocean are a draw for locals and tourists alike, and while it's no Magaluf strip, it's touristy in all the right ways. It's also cheaper than the big cities. Our main reason for visiting Sihanoukville was to enjoy a few relaxing days, and that's exactly what we do. The first day we stay close to town and relax on one of the more populated beaches before returning to enjoy dinner and fireworks right on the shore front. I am the antisocial for a few hours as I sit at the bar and watch the rugby with some newly acquired Cambodian friends that were working there. That's all I'll say on that because I'm not sure I'll get over those results for quite some time. I attempt to drown my sorrows and enjoy a great night out with the group instead!

Our final day in Cambodia is spent on a private island. The group snorkels in the shallow water and we attempt to cure our hangovers with a BBQ and our sun loungers in the shade. My group will testify that I spent the entire time under a massive tree, repeatedly applied sun cream and was only in the sea for around 30 minutes. You should see my sunburn. From the chest up I am completely red raw, except my face which only has random patches of burn. I'm beginning to think that there is literally no way to stop me burning. #GingerLife

Bamboo Island was the perfect end to a beautiful country however. The coastline, the cities, the culture, the food and the people; I don't think I have a bad thing to say about any of it! I would definitely return!

Fun Facts:

1. Cambodia is too poor to print it's own money in a large enough quantity so they buy American dollars from other countries and use both them and Cambodian Riel.
2. As of summer this year, you don't need a visa to enter Vietnam (with a British passport.)
3. The former King of Cambodia worked alongside Pol Pot in massacring his people, and yet he is memorialised and it is against the law to say anything bad about him. 
4. Pol Pot and his top officers were allowed to live in exile by the USA, the UK, France and many more powerful countries, because 'we' feared the spread of communism around South East Asia if they started another uprising. These men were never punished or asked to answer for their crimes and we played a part in that.
5. Between the end of the war in 1975 and 1998, nothing was done to help the families of the 2.5 million dead.
6. In 1970 the population of Cambodia was just over 5 million. Half were then killed. The population now is over 15 million.
7. 70% of the population is under the age of 20. The eldest generation are around 65, and people know that men over the age of 50 could easily have been soldiers under the Pol Pot regime, but the Cambodians don't believe in killing for revenge, so they live peacefully among each other.

Ta Promh is over 900 years old and was recently featured in the Hollywood make-over of Lara Croft 'Tomb Raider.' Trees like this are the main feature and over 40 foot high. It's magical and bewildering to see.

Ta Promh was built by a Cambodian King for his mother when she moved out of the palace. It had its own dancers, cooks, gardens, was completely walled off and was surrounded by a moat. Sounds like he was trying to get rid of her.

The gang looking incredibly soaked and muddy. Most of these clothes had to get put out. It remained around thirty degree Celsius, but the typhoon rain was unbelievable. Much fun.

We rode around Phnom Penh on 'cyclos' - the city's olden answer to Tuk-Tuks. No engines, just man power on a bike and a bag of rice to balance you out. Cheers to the lovely gentlemen in green!

We took a private boat to Bamboo Island, about 40 minutes from the shores of Sihanoukville, and spent the day in paradise. Despite the hangovers most of us made it in one piece. Thankfully the seas were lovely and calm.

Our own little slice of paradise.

It's a very fond farewell to Cambodia, it's been far too short, but I'm also excited to be moving on.

Vietnam is next on the list for this backpacker! If this 9 hour bus journey ever ends that is.

Signing out, S x

Goodbye China - Shanghai to Macau!

Our tour has allocated us 4 nights in Shanghai, and it becomes clear that unfortunately this part has been almost thrown together. There are few day activities and no "unmissable" activities like we've had in all the other places, and yet they have three nights out planned for us - in a row. Fair enough we are nearing the end of our tour, the mad rush around China is over and we have more time just to chill. We arrive off a four and a half hour private bus, grab ourselves some dinner and get ready for the Shanghai pub crawl!

It's all you can drink in the first bar, free shots on the bus between each bar, free shots in the second and third bars and a free drink in the final nightclub. The first bar pour four shots of vodka in and mix it with one shot of orange juice. This continues for most of the night. All but one of our group joined in the crawl and we have a really enjoyable time - made better by the fact that it's not just us, we're joined by Belgians, Kiwis, Irish and many more. 

Unfortunately the night ends on a low note when we're treated like absolute scum by the Chinese bouncers in the final nightclub. It's glaringly obvious they don't like westerners and the club is far too pretentious for any of us to enjoy ourselves. We're pushed, shoved and even decked to the floor at one point before we give up and head home. The mood only decreases with some of the group when the England rugby score filters through, as they were playing as we were out. Oops? My sympathies...no, really...maybe.

That second day is a hangover day. We venture round the local area during the day, but wait till teatime to take a stroll along the longest shopping street in China (Nanjing Road) to the bund. The rain is heavy by this point, but it doesn't hamper the view. I take back what I said about Hong Kong, Shanghai's quirky statement skyline is definitely the best in the world. So far.

We opt not to do KTV (we move it to the next night) and take our hungover, wet selves back to the hostel and have a much needed early night.

The third day we are taken out of Shanghai to an ancient water town which professes to be the Venice of China. Trust me, it's not. It's rundown, shabby, cheap and tacky. Every stall and shop sells the same stuff; from disgusting food (both in appearance and smell,) to tacky wares, making it a drag rather than an enjoyable stroll. I'm sure if the weather had been better we may have enjoyed it more, but unfortunately the cloud and cooler temperature had followed us to Shanghai too.

Night three is KTV night. Some of the group are apprehensive about singing, but it's not like Karaoke at home, KTV is a big deal in Asia, and whilst the one we go to isn't the best one I've been in, it's still better than some dingy club in Glasgow. We pile into our private booth, alcohol in hand and start searching the songs. We have the room booked for three hours, but by the time 1am rolls around, most of us have no voices and are sick of singing. 

As it was another late night we don't start until around midday the next day. We take it upon ourselves to entertain ourselves and buy tickets for the hop on hop off bus tour and enjoy an open top bus tour of the city in clear, sunny weather. We hit up one of the biggest fake goods markets in Shanghai, have ourselves some lunch and then head back to the Bund. This time a small group of us head up to the rooftop bar of a hotel opposite the skyline for the best view in the city. We're not disappointed. We pay the equivalent of £10 for two free drinks (cocktails or wine or beer or softs) and a snack each (a big plate of either chicken wings or spring rolls.) It's more than worth it, you can see the whole city spread out in front of you, both sides of the river, the weather was clear and the atmosphere perfect. The absolute highlight of my time in Shnghai. I even managed to FaceTime from the top of this hotel just to rub it in someone's face.

Most of the group head out for a Korean BBQ that night, but as I'm struck down with the cold, I make the most of an empty dorm and have myself a twenty minute hot shower, pack up my shit and crawl into bed with a book. Bliss. It's the small things you start to appreciate on a trip like this.

I pack up because the next day we head off early for a nine hour bullet train to Nanjing. 2000  kilometres - the equivalent of Glasgow to Moscow - in 9 hours isn't bad, but none of us look forward to it. 9 hours in one spot isn't fantastic, and we feel like we're wasting a day, but this country is so huge that a journey like this is normal!

We disembark at Nanjing station (Nanjing is the ancient capital of China,) but we are immediately onto a private coach for a two hour journey to Fujian. This trip has been a lot of travelling, but to pack one of the biggest countries in the world into 25 days, it has to be done.

Fujian is magical. The scenery is astoundingly beautiful, the local family we stay with is the friendliest, most welcoming family we've met our entire time in China and the weather (at least the first day) is perfect. We spend two days here, our first night in a roundhouse (one of the oldest in China - more below) and our second night in a hostel. It's two different kind of lives in China and we embrace both. Throw in a hike, a scenic walk and a 20km bike ride, our time in the idyllic countryside is not wasted.

We jump on a night train the next night - the last of this trip - and spend our last night in mainland China speeding once again through unknown lands. It's short this time, and we disembark at 7am in Guangzhou, board a two and a half hour public bus and end at the Gumbei border crossing. It really is goodbye to China as we queue at immigration once more, and before we know it, we're in Macau.

The signs change to Portuguese but the people stay the same. It's bizarre to say the least. 

Fun Facts! 

1. Macau's revenue is five times that of Vegas. 
2. It has never had a downturn in all its years until now. The Chinese government is cracking down on its nationals gambling (it's against the law in China) especially public servants who might be thought to be embezzling.
3. If you go four hours in any direction from Macau you can reach half of the worlds population - India, China, SE Asia. Beat that America!

The building on the right is the tallest building in China and is also a third higher again than the one on the left. Doesn't look it but the one on the right is several city blocks back. It's much, much higher in person.

This one was taken from the Vue Bar at the top of the Hyatt hotel on the opposite side of the bund. The views of Shangai are incredible, from the harbour to the city centre, and there's even a hottub. Well worth the entrance fee, of you're ever in Shanghai don't hesitate!

The gals before KTV. No more needs to be said really.

The stunning Fujian. Home to the oldest roundhouses and tea plantations in China. We had a tea tasting "ceremony" in one of the roundhouses where we got to taste - and buy - six different kinds of local tea. From black to green to ladies to men's. All good for you in different ways. All prepared and brewed in different ways too. Incredibly fascinating.

This is the oldest roundhouse in China at nearly 1000 years old. The biggest of these can have up to 300 rooms shared between many families. The ground floor is always kitchens, the second floor usually a living area and the third and fourth are occupied by the old and the young resectively. Each family has a vertical "slot" in the roundhouse rather than a horizontal "flat/apartment." These are incredibly basic living quarters. While residents may have cable TV or cell phones, the roundhouses themselves are dirty, old, falling apart and quite frankly grim on the inside. It's no way of life. I guess they are looked back on like the high rises are now seen in the UK. Times have moved on, but life in the roundhouse hasn't. One we visited had so many bones on the ground we almost walked out, and we woke up to the cacophony of dogs barking as one was being slaughtered on our first morning.

Mountain biking in the rain rounded off our last day in the middle of nowhere. The family we stayed with provided us with the bikes, transport, unlimited free water and even a party that evening. We were given permission to use the town stage and speaker system to throw ourselves a little "Leaving China" party.

In Macau we visited The Venetian, the largest casino in the world where, yeah you guessed it, they've built Venice. Canals and gondolas wind their way through a massively expensive shopping mall and around the casino itself. I managed to triple my money on a roulette table, but sad to say it won't be enough to pay for another six months of backpacking. Damn! It did however, pay for an expensive icecream, with change, while a group of us watched two of our team do the highest bungee in the world. Both the price and the bungee part put me off I'm afraid! Maybe in NZ!

Team Sticky Rice - because it's all we've eaten, and because we've looked after each other and stuck by one another for the last month. My trip would not have been as amazing with every single one of these guys and I wish them all the best in their coming adventures. Between us we have most of the globe covered in the coming months and I know there's a few sofas I can check in on from time to time.

So it's time to say goodbye to China. Again.

I stand by what I've always said. This country is hard to love. It's people are rude, disrespectful, impolite, impatient and have no idea what personal space is. They will gawk and shove a camera in your face. They will follow you around, hacking up phlegm and spitting it out beside you. They will deck you to the floor if it means getting somewhere two seconds faster. They will completely disregard you just because you're a westerner. Their toilets and public spaces are disgustingly dirty and their food is NOT as good as you think.

If you can get passed all the little things - which I know for a fact some of my friends and family couldn't - then you'll enjoy your time here. I know we've all been fed up of at least one aspect in the time that we've been here. I for one am sick of being treated like a circus animal, and if someone shoves a phone in my face to take a picture, I take it off them. You guys, I think some of you would get stuck on the showers above squat toilets, or the lack of doors on squats. I know for a fact some of you wouldn't cope with that. Oh, how we can laugh about it now.

But it's been 4 weeks of absolute wonders. I've seen things more ancient than you can imagine. More crazy, more opulent, more dirty, more grand and more unbelievable. Not to mention cute. PANDAS. We've had difficult hikes, relaxing bike rides, idyllic rafting, and some terrible singing. I've loved every minute of experiences and loved spending time with the nineteen others in my group.

I even know an incredible way to get rid of mosquito bites - sunburn them to hell. I had two before I suffered my sun stroke and they were gone within hours. Not recommended however. Do not do that at home. I have 14 mosquito bites at the moment, so when you're packing, remember that no amount of Deet is enough amount of Deet. Just saying.

This backpacker is checking out. I'm back in Hong Kong and ready for a new adventure.

I am genuinely sad to be parting from my group, but I know I'll see them again, whether in their native country or somewhere on the road in the coming months and I know we'll have a blast when the time comes.

But for now, it's goodnight. Farewell China. Next stop Bangkok!

S x

Beijing & Moganshan

Ah, the hustle and bustle and endless noise of this capital. I didn't miss it, but a part of me feels somewhat accomplished to have returned. Finally.

Two years ago I had an amazing time with a diverse group of people at university in Tianjin - a city just South-East of Beijing. It was the furthest from home I'd ever been. It was the first time I'd been out of the UK by myself. I worked hard for it, and worked hard while I was here. I enjoyed every single minute. The people, my roommates, the culture, the classes, the learning. And here I am again!

It's sort of like I've come full circle even though I'm only at the start of my long backpacking journey. I returned to Glasgow in September 2013 and almost didn't return to uni. I'd seen a different world; the last thing I wanted to do was return to Uni and go back to normality.

In the end, the bursaries and loans swung it. Not the fact I'd get a degree, but that I was getting paid to do so. That's when the saving started. I spent my final year of uni trying to put away as much as possible. My 21st came and went and some more money went in the pot. I moved home 2 months early and started straight into a full time job, sacrificing time with housemates and coursemates. My last loan instalment went straight into my savings account and I realised it was worth it.

Eighteen months after that last loan installment I jetted off to Tokyo. Definitely worth it. I worked all the hours I could (company and time permitting,) made life long friends at work and earned every dime. And here I am. Boom, circle complete.

So if anyone says it's easy, it's not. If someone says their mum and dad paid for it, trust me it's not as worthwhile. Work for it and you earn it. It's the best sort of feeling. I've only been away 4.5 weeks and already I've had the most amazing time. I've met people I never would and feel confident in calling some friends.

So Beijing, thanks for having me back!

The weather is shit. Honestly, horrendous. The rain hasn't stopped for two days, but the day trips have continued. We disembark a night train at 6am and are greeted by blaring horns and more stares. We arrive at our hostel and stuff our faces on western breakfasts. All but three of us take part in the first outing, The Temple of Heaven, two of us opt out as we've done it before and one of the girls is dead on her feet. We crawl into the room the group has left their luggage in and sleep amongst them for a couple of hours. We check in around midday and make full use of the best showers we've had in weeks. Powerful and hot with a waterfall function, I have to tear myself out. There's a bug going around our group and has taken at least 6 people victim already, and I have the dodgy stomach version, not fabulous in a country with squat toilets I tell you. Backpacking is super glamorous, didn't you know?!

We are treated to an acrobatic show on our first evening, and while only around half of us go, we are blown away. It's exciting, funny, thrilling and sickening all at the same time. It ranges from girls spinning plates while balancing on their heads, to guys flipping themselves through 10 foot high rings, to guys speeding motor around a steel cage in motorbikes. Five of them in a giant hamster ball. That part made me feel a little queasy.

Day two sees the rest of my group head off to Tiananmen Square and The Forbidden City. I've done this extensively before, and I am feeling worse than the day before so I stay in easy reach of a bathroom for the day. They return soggy and cold, and we all curl up in our hostel's movie room to watch a film in the warmth. The rest of the night is spent much the same way, dinner, some have a few drinks, another movie is popped in, and I sleep even more. I wake at 6am with my glasses and clothes still on. Seems I really needed the rest!

Day three in Beijing sees us heading on a camping trip. The fact that it's been pouring for days lies heavy at the back of our minds. We are the last group of the year to even be scheduled to camp on The Great Wall, as it's too cold once October hits, but we're not even sure it will happen.

The sun is shining in Beijing this morning and we pile onto a bus to the Olympic Park. Last time I was in the capital there was a thunderstorm and the trip was cancelled, so I'm looking forward to it. Yeah, it's just another stadium, but it's interesting to hear how Beijing people actually feel about the Olympics. Everyone in China saw it as a massive success for the country on the international stage, but people in the capital hated it. They don't like that ever since 2008, companies have commercialised their once smaller city, surrounding it in pollution and smog. They didn't like the added risk of millions of people travelling to their city and visiting their sacred places (risk of terrorism,) and nor do they like the money the government poured into it.

1. Yes, the Bird's Nest was never finished. No, it wasn't supposed to look like that despite what the Chinese want you to believe.
2. No, the fireworks of the opening and closing ceremonies were not live. They were filmed over a series of nights (when the weather was good) and superimposed as needed.
3. The Birds Nest is never used (except on the world stage - the World Athletic Anniversary Games were held there only a month ago,) so the Chinese government spent even more money building a smaller stadium just next door. Ludicrous.
4. Beijing people are not thrilled that their city has been chosen to hold the Winter Olympics in 2022. They didn't want it the first time, a second time has them up in arms. Despite them being the only city to hold both (you'd think maybe they'd be proud?)

We eventually leave a sunny Beijing behind us and bus the two and a half hours towards the Wall before squeezing into a farmhouse. In the pelting rain. The weather front seems to have beaten us here, and as we sit outside and gobble down a homemade dinner, it only gets worse. The wind picks up, the temperature drops to around 10 degrees Celsius and the rain continues to hammer on the tin roof above us.

It doesn't take long for the group to decide it would be 1) too dangerous to hike up in the dark in those conditions & 2) we'd all be soggy, miserable messes for the next 12 hours. We opt to stay at the farmhouse (the worst accommodation we've seen on our tour) make our own little campfire, toast marshmallows and play games for a few hours. At least we were under a roof and sort of warm. The beds are basically large tables with sheets on top and five of us sleep in each one. Everything is damp, nothing is particularly clean and the wind doesn't stop. We huddle, shivering, together and fall into a short-lived sleep.

We're up at 4.45am the next morning, and are happy to report to whoever hasn't made it out of the room and into the cold morning air, that yes it is clear, and yes we can see stars and the moon. Maybe sunrise on the Great Wall will happen after all!

We set off hungry and still half asleep, and hike the 35 minutes to the section of unrestored wall the government has granted us permission to visit. No tourists are allowed here, and the tranquility is astounding. The only noises are us puffing in the cold air, and the wind howling through the trees. At the top it only strengthens, the wind gusting at around 60mph, making it hard to stand let alone climb, but we persevere and set off along the unrestored section as the sun makes its ascent.

Even as someone who has seen - and climbed - The Wall before, albeit a tourist section, it doesn't fail to hit me. The magnitude and beauty of both the wall itself and the surrounding area is enough to take your breath away. Or maybe it was the wind? We don't stay as long as we'd like, due to the sheer strength of the wind and the bitter cold of the morning air - half the group haven't packed warm clothes at all and I am thanking myself for deciding to bring my hoodie in the end - and many of us comment on it being a bit like a coastal walk at home. The staggering difference between the weather and temperature in Beijing compared to the 30 degree heat awaiting us in Shanghai is mind-blowing. 

Despite not camping; the whole team seemed to enjoy the experience. How many people can say they've watched the sun rise on The Great Wall of China? Not a lot of people can even say they've seen it for themselves (twice, ha,) so a sense of accomplishment still rings through us, I think.

It takes us most of the two and a half hour journey back to Beijing to warm up, but the fact that those waterfall showers are awaiting us is like the light at the end of the happy but tiring tunnel.

It seems our time in Beijing has been short lived. Even those who took part in the planned activities say they feel they haven't seen enough of the city, and I agree. My second trip has solidified how much I love this city however. It's nothing like Hong Kong or Tokyo, and I feel I misjudged it last time. I would be more than happy to return and spend more time in China's northern capital.

The relaxed part of a thrilling and daring evening. I was in too much shock to take any pictures of those parts!

The unfinished stadium that barely gets used. Wish I'd been here a month ago to see Usain Bolt beat Justin Gatlin! Olympic park doesn't have a great feel when there aren't 150,000 sports fans wandering around.

We were so lucky to get a beautifully clear morning for a sunrise in this magical part of the world. These photos don't do justice to how hard it was to even stand in the winds that were blowing! Worth it though, eh?

However, it's onwards and southwards! We've reached the tip of our tour in China and it's time to head back south into the warmth. Our next destination is Hangzhou, and it's another 15 hour night train to get there. I'd squeezed into my top bunk, less than four foot from the ceiling, with three Chinese men for company around me to write the bulk of this. We aren't lingering in Hangzhou - the third biggest city in mainland China - instead heading to Moganshan - a bamboo nature reserve two hours north for a quiet twenty-four hours.

Moganshan is the "resort" for the rich and famous for Shanghai, and straight away it's obvious there is money here. The houses hat are built and still being built are better than any we've seen, with wrought iron gates and big expensive western cars sitting outside. 

We are blessed with beautiful weather, and enjoy two days of relaxing walks and a swim in a natural lagoon. Absolute bliss and perfect to wind down before the hustle and bustle of another big city!

We spent an hour walking to this secluded lagoon and then the same again splashing around in the sun before drying out on the rocks for a while. The Chinese - who don't ever get in the water - were loving the stupid westerners getting in the freezing water, but we had a blast!

With half the group still sick it's probably a good thing we've been taking it easy for a few days!

It's onwards again after only twenty four hours here, next stop Shanghai! Whoop!

This backpacker is away to test the showers in the new place.

S x

Chengdu, Xi'an & Shaolin

Chengdu is the capital of Sichuan Province and the experiences just kept rolling.

We truck ourselves and all our stuff off our 25 hour night train and onto the packed Chengdu metro. It becomes clear then - and throughout our stay in Chengdu and Xi'an - that people here have never seen so many westerners, or a ginger in their lives. 

It's funny to notice the differences. They see a blonde and go "wow, amazing," but they see a ginger and go "what the fuck is that?!" It's clear they just don't understand. They're trying to work out whether I'm like the Koreans and have dyed my hair a crazy colour, or if it's real, and if it is real then 'oh my god that's unbelievable.'

So while you sort of get used to being a circus act, walking into a waiting room in Chengdu station and having around 600 people turn and stare, is something you find bizzarre to say the least.

Chengdu as a city isn't a great wonder to behold. It's another concrete jungle with apartment blocks being thrown up left right and centre, but we are only here for two nights before moving on again and we thoroughly enjoy our time.

Our first night we experience Sichuan Hot Pot. Where the oil (already seasoned and spiced) is brought to the table and put on the gas to cook. The outer ring is spicy while the inside isn't, and you can choose which to cook your food in. Our guide orders around 8 different things and they are brought, already sliced, and we slide them into our desired oil. The off putting thing about this meal is the crazy amount of oil. Not only is it cooked in it, you also have sesame oil in your own bowl to take the spice out of your food before you eat it. Let's just say it was a messy experience and I think the whole group agreed that it wasn't the best meal we'd ever had. But hey, it was something new!

Day 2. Where do I even begin to describe day 2 in Chengdu? The city is famous for a few things, but the most obvious, and the most beloved is that amazing black and white bear we as people just can't seem to get enough of. It was Panda time! One of the most exciting activities on the tour, I can safely say I probably annoyed my group by the sheer amount of times I said "PANDA, PANDA," in an excited chant on our way to the Panda Park. 

The Chengdu Panda Breeding Centre has researched the Giant Panda for over 30 years and thinks it's found the most sustainable way to save one of the oldest species on the planet. Did you know the average species life time is 5 million years, and that the Giant Panda is already at 8 million?

They are cared for, nurtured, watched closely, paired with hopeful mates, and in times when that isn't successful, artificially inseminated. The park now has just under 100 pandas living in it's expansive grounds from 2 weeks old to 20 years old.

I want one.

No, seriously. Kids ask their parents for ponies all the time. I want a panda. They're so cute!! However, another fun fact, they aren't soft and cuddly like you would expect. Panda fur is actually quite coarse. Bit of a disappointment, but still want one. And yes, while they didn't do anything other than eat bamboo at a rate you wouldn't believe, and sleep hanging from a tree, we all still had a wonderful day!

In the afternoon of panda day, half of our group took a trip to Leshan, an ancient city over two hours drive from Chengdu. Leshan's claim to fame is that it has the largest Buddha in the world, carved into the rock face overlooking the river. Another sight to behold. The pictures don't do this 23-story structure justice. It's almost like the two kings in Lord of the Rings if you can excuse me geeking out for a moment.

Our bus drops us off on the road at the head of the Buddha and our party descends single file down a staircase carved from the rock. It's slow going, but it gives you the best view of the Buddha itself. The bottom is literally selfie central but among all us tourists (mostly Chinese) there are two dozen Tibetan monks going through their praying ritual on their knees between the giant stone feet of the 1200 year old Buddha.

The only thing about descending 47 flights of stairs is that you have to climb back up!

We party the night away in the Jellyfish nightclub in Chengdu and pay for it the next day. So our final day is relaxed and hangover ridden. I drew the short straw and am sick all day, not able to keep anything down including water, so I spend most of my day lying on the sofa in my hostel while my group lunched and walked around the city centre.

At 9pm we board another night train - only 15 hours this time - and speed off North West again. Next destination Xi'an!

A more historic city, we don't see much of Xi'an only taking part in a 13km bike ride around the Ming Dynasty city walls. The most complete ancient city walls in China. We are based here for a sole reason - The Terracotta Warriors (below.)

The next day we try our hand at a public coach and spend 6 hours driving into the countryside towards Dengfeng, the home of the Shaolin temple and the ancient home of Kung Fu.

We are treated to a show and Kung Fu lesson at a local school, where our money goes directly to their studies and training. The kids are aged between 7 and 16, and are more talented than you would believe. Hand stands on two fingers, breaking cement blocks with one hand, and much more. Despite being bitten alive by mosquitos (I added 8 more fresh bites to my collection) we had a great night in the rural countryside. The next day we go to Shaolin Temple, trek up to Dharma Cave (reminds you of something out of Lost) and watch a professional Kung Fu show, even better than the day before.

Despite an exhausting day we head to Zhengzhou, 2 hours from Shaolin, and board our third night train. The hardest one so far. We board at 10.15pm and disembark in Beijing at 6.10am. Barely half the group have had any sleep and we arrived bleary eyed at our hostel so early we can't check in.

2 years later I am back in Beijing, the beating heart of this country, and all I can think about is crawling into my bed later. 

With some of my group at the Sichuan Hot Pot dinner. Much spice, so much oil and plenty of free watery orange juice for everyone!

One of our group thought we were having a group photo taken beside some giant blobs. It wasn't until we were walking away that she realised they were pandas.

My absolute favourite experience so far. I WANT ONE.

These little guys are around 1/2 months old. I WANT ONE.

The biggest Buddha in the world at over 70 metres, carved out of the rock face on the river at Yeshan.

The night before the day I was sick as a dog. Definitely wasn't self inflicted. Definitely wasn't more than a bottle of vodka involved. Team.

The first emperor of all of China, the Qin Dynasty (pronounced 'Chin' - hence China) unified six countries to create this one big one. He started building his tomb at the age of 13, the biggest in the world at 52 square kilometres and 200 metres deep. He decided he needed 7000+ terracotta warriors to protect him in the afterlife. His body has never been exhumed as legend says his body is surrounded by rivers of mercury. Good ruse if it's a lie. 2000 years ago the guy was responsible for the creation of the country we know as China, and for building 5-lane highways lined with trees that are still in use today. 2000 years ago! Take that Romans!

The kids at this school are either orphans or come from some of the poorest families in the region. Poverty here is more obvious than anywhere we have previously been, but statistically 500 million people in China have lifted themselves out of dire poverty since 2006. 9 years has changed this country irrevocably. This school relies solely on donations, so pictures and videos of westerners are welcomed to make them seem more legitimate. 2 of the students graduate in June, when 1 wants to join the army, and 1 is heading to the movies.

On our final day we visit Shaolin Temple, and hike up one of the neighbouring mountains to Dharma Cave where Dharma himself meditated for 9 years. The temple was originally Taoist until the Indian monk changed it to Buddhism. The temple has been destroyed more than 15 times in it's past, but still stands today. This statue is atop the mountain that took us around 45 minutes to climb. 

This backpacker is exhausted, so I'm skipping this morning's activity - The Temple of Heaven (as I've already done it) - to find a sofa to curl up on until I can check into my room.

S x

Hong Kong & The Start Of my Tour

Much like Tokyo, I fell in love with Hong Kong in a matter of hours; the buzz and the lights. Yeah, it's yet another city, but it's hard not to be enraptured by the life of this place.

I arrive first thing in the morning, and by the time I've battled my way through immigration, declared nothing at customs, waited over an hour for my bag to arrive on the conveyer belt (yes, I was beginning to panic,) grabbed a western lunch, converted my money, caught a train and arrived at my hotel, it's already the middle of the afternoon!

The taxi ride from the airport, while quiet, is eye-opening. We pass the port first, the fourth largest in the world, and being from little populated Scotland, I've seen nothing like it before! It seems to go on for miles before we wind our way through busy streets bustling with people, double-parked cars and markets galore. My taxi door is opened for me, my bag makes it to the lobby before I do, I'm greeted by name, checked in quickly, given a voucher for a free drink in the rooftop bar and most importantly, filled in on my upgrade. Sure, it's an "access" room, normally for someone in a wheelchair, but I'm assured it's better than I paid for. I'm situated on the top floor, escorted up by the bellhop, and invited in. Now, let me just say here, that all through my life it's been Travellodge and Holiday Inn Expresses. I have never been in a hotel room like this. King size bed, panoramic windows, a waterfall shower, jet bathtub, and a mini bar that must cost £100 to stock.

I shower and settle myself in, making full use of the button beside my bed that controls the blackout curtains and blinds. I barely move. I sew a couple of badges onto my bag (my only souvenirs,) chill out to some music and finally take a nap. It's the downtime I was so desperately looking forward to, and it didn't disappoint.

I treat myself to dinner in the hotel restaurant, that cost 3 times as much as lunch before heading out into the Hong Kong night. 8pm and 30 degrees Celsius. I do my best not to melt. My hotel was situated in Hong Kong Island, and it's only a 10 minute walk until I'm at the Star Ferry Pier. The sun has set and the "show" is on. I cross over to the opposite side from Victoria Harbour and gaze in wonder at the spectacle before me.

It's 30 degrees and around 80% humidity, even at 9pm at night so I don't last long before heading back to my hotel room. Honestly, I think I had the best sleep I could imagine to help me kick off the rest of my time in China. The biggest advice I can give you if you're backpacking for a lengthy period of time, is to treat yourself. One night in the Indigo in Hong Kong cost me £60 including breakfast (which is 10x more than a night in a hostel,) but a night to yourself is priceless. I am already looking forward to my dirt cheap 4 star hotel in Bangkok at the end of this tour and the beginning of the next.

I spent the first week of my journey constantly keeping tabs of what I was spending, worried that it'd be too much, but at the same time wanting to know for future how much money would last me a certain amount of time.

I met my group early Wednesday morning and through bleary eyes we set off on our first adventure together. 20 complete strangers, couples, teenagers, solo backpackers and some honeymooners thrown together. And it's been great so far, we've all clicked, and we've all mingled with each other. It's great that there's a good number of us, because it means we won't be spending all day every day with the same people.

The Peak. We travel up to the highest point in Hong Kong, in Kowloom, opposite Hong Kong Island, and soak in the early morning views. On one side, the sprawling cityscape of Hong Kong, on the other the endless ocean and many islands that make up greater Hong Kong. You can judge the size of this city just by the vast number of cargo ships sailing to and from the harbour.

10 hours travelling and dinner. We leave Hong Kong for Shenzen and cross the border into China through the train station before catching a bullet train to Guilin. We then board a tiny Chinese size bus to Yangshuo and arrive to moonlit mountains and buzzing markets.

On day two in Yangshuo we take a bike ride through the town and into the country, along the river and into the mountains. While cycling on a busy Chinese road was an experience, none of us were harmed and we all thoroughly enjoyed our day. We then boarded bamboo rafts (above) and floated down the river, steered expertly by gondola-style drivers. It was hard work! While soaking in the scenery, the "drivers" splash us and even stop for a beer. After a long-awaited shower and a group dinner, a group of us head for a massage and hot cupping. Releasing the tension from weeks of carting round a backpack almost as big as myself, my shoulders felt brand new again!

Day 3, we tackle the Moon hill, a special place in Yangshuo, aptly named as there is a crescent missing from the landscape. At only 450 feet up, it's not the highest hill you'll ever climb, but it's worth it for the view and the breeze at the top! We continue this day with mud baths and hotsprings to once again rid ourselves of the fatigue and sticky sweatiness. 

We finish this day by experiencing Commorant fishing (the HSBC advert in the UK,) where the fisherman uses birds to catch his prey rather than a net. It's amazing to watch these birds dive into the deep river and return with a fish caught in it's beak. An elastic band around it's throat stops it from swallowing the fish and it delivers it to the feet of the fisherman. A beautiful boat trip under the moonlight and dominant lit-up mountains!

On our final day in Yansghuo we get out of bed for an early morning kayak down the Yangtze. While I got sunstroke and purple legs, we all enjoyed it. It was hard work, but the scenery was worth it. We've bonded so much in such a short period of time just from the sheer magnitude of things we've done together. I've never kayaked before, but I made it to the end!

We finish this day with a special village tour to the home of one of our guides. An eye-opening experience of both poverty and politics in the country, where we are treated to homemade tea, dinner and spectacular views.

Unfortunately our time in Yangshuo comes to an end. We board a 25 hour night train from Guilin to Chengdu, the capital city of Sichuan province. We're half way into it when we discover we could have done the same journey on a bullet train for 8 hours! It's all part of the Chinese experience however, and we spend hours talking, laughing, playing games and sleeping. The sleeping definitely helps. And while I've never been in a smaller bunk, with as little space, I am rocked to sleep under the aircon. It's not glamorous in the slightest, Chinese vendors pass up and down every ten minutes trying to sell their wares, the music and the lights come blaring on at 7am sharp and the toilets are something else entirely. While in china you have to get used to squat toilets, it's either that or you don't go at all. A squat toilet on a train is a whole other kettle of fish. These aren't steady, smooth trains, and squat toilets are hard enough as it is. Let's just say your skill should be much improved by the end of the 25 hours. And honestly, they were clean and not all that bad. I've been in worse in high-tech stations and airports.

I've arrived in Chengdu, and tomorrow I'm heading to the Panda Research Centre. (SO EXCITED,) so it's an early night in this substantially cooler city. There's no suffocating humidity here and I'm so thankful to be out of it even if just for the night.

This backpacker is heading to bed. Gotta get ready to smuggle a panda out tomorrow.

S x

Seoul

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving."

Albert Einstein.

I find my days here have been mixed. I feel like I haven't seen or experienced all that South Korea has to offer, but also seen and heard more than I could wrap my brain around. This country is not big, it might have a huge population (running theme these days) but it's area is relatively small, and I feel like more time would have been better served outside it's bustling capital.

Seoul - 10.1 million people, with a history of just under 3000 years and rife with war, death and turmoil. 

I was sat on the train from the airport, taking in everything around me, when the news flashed up on one of the TV screens (subtitled in English.) Top story, flashing across, that the Hyundai Motor workers were going on strike. Top of the bulletin, much like the migrant crisis or the new Labour leader at home. And then, some ten minutes later, a small segment only containing the words "NK 'likely' to launch another missile strike."

Yeah, we hear bits and pieces at home like this, but NK is less than 60km from Seoul. It's capital Pyeongyang, only 3.5 hours by train. These are their neighbours and this is normal. They live under constant threat from a regime in a country that should rightly be part of theirs. Everywhere you go, people talk about their shared history, about their stake in it all and about how much they want peace.

North and South Korea have been at war for 70 years. 70. It has never been declared over, and as an outsider looking in, it's clear it won't ever be in the near future. A ceasefire was declared in 1953, and a buffer zone created to keep the two sides apart. But is it enough?

I visited the National War Memorial of Korea on my last day in Seoul, a huge museum dedicated to both Korea's history and mainly the Korean War. It was busy, especially for a beautiful afternoon, but it seemed to me like no one was that affected. I found the whole thing harrowing and ridiculously upsetting. That brother should turn on brother under the direction of one dictator, who enlisted the help of Stalin (are we surprised) and the then Chinese president. Would you be able to forgive a nation for helping to destroy yours? 

The memorial has but these words enscripted as a welcome "Freedom is not free." And bloody hell are they right. This post has become incredibly somber and depressing so I shan't go on, but it is impossible to stay in this country even a few days without being affected by it. The people here are scared, but they also have to get on with their lives.

They will be the first to embrace you with open arms, they are friendly and helpful, and they also want you to know, without a shadow of a doubt, that you are welcome. You are so welcome, and they want the world to know, that South Korea is safe, please don't be put off visiting.

Apart from all this, I was slightly disappointed when reading up on all the "Top things to do" and lonely planet guides for Seoul, that shopping is the main draw. This city lives on consumerism to the highest lever, and as a backpacker, shopping just doesn't appeal to me. So my days here have been meticulously planned to get the most out of them, and here I sit, about to leave yet again.

My favourite day? Saturday. My day trip to the DMZ. The Demilitarised Zone is the buffer I spoke of earlier, between North and South, with no military presence within it at all. I descended one of the tunnels excavated by the North Koreans and came within 170 feet of the border. I peered through binoculars at propaganda villages set up by the North Koreans that frankly aren't fooling anyone and I walked along freedom bridge, where POWs were exchanged in 1953, after their 3 year long war.

It's been turned into a tourist frienzy, and our guide even joked that South Korea was making a fortune on the tunnels the North Koreans took years to build and never completed. The world would surely be a different place if they had succeeded, but it isn't dwelt on much. The entire experience was bizarre, but eye opening and I would reccommend it to anyone, whether you enjoy history or not.

This is the part where I leave an appreciative mention to Danny, Jim and Amit, who not only treated this budget backpacker to a lovely Korean BBQ lunch, but allowed me a days worth of conversation after several days without! We were even accosted in the street by a Korean gentleman who had many a tale to tell! There's a picture out there somewhere with the two of us in it, I don't mind if I never see it again! Having been in and out of jail multiple times in over 20 years for protesting the last government (that was won through a coup-de-ta,) at 81 years of age, he's developed and created a new alphabet for universal and worldwide use, including only 22 letters. I'm afraid I can't tell you much more than that as I swiftly made my exit after a request for a kiss. I did however get a free ice lemonade from him so I guess I did not too badly that day!

And thus my days in South Korea came to an end! I do wish I'd spent more time here, and in the countryside rather than yet another city, but that is my lesson learned, I can always come back! And I'm certainly not complaining that Tropical Storm George did not follow me here. I got sunburn! And I enjoyed some sunshine and vitamin D, so thank you Seoul, for that.

My recommendation? Please visit this country, but make sure you visit all it has to offer.

My days in SK:

Seoul is nestled between four mountains, and has one directly in the centre. The one in the background is the Northernmost, and is home to the ancient city walls.

The Imperial Palace is around 800 years old, is bigger than the Forbidden City in Beijing, and has oh so many stories within its walls. This was the terrace for hosting garden and summer parties, with boating and fishing in the lake around it.

The government of Seoul spent 384 million dollars tearing down highways and cement roads in bringing daylight to this stream. It runs through the city centre and is a hotspot in the summer for Seoulites dipping their toes in the cool waters.

While financially "reunification" would bring the South Korean economy to a standstill, the people here still hope and pray for it. They have been kept apart too long.

Dorasan train station is the northernmost station in South Korea. It was built with the money from 120,000 Korean donors in the hopes of reunification. The lines were reconnected in 2008 when relations between the two countries were better, and a cargo train ran from here to Pyeongyang. However, now that tensions have risen again, this station lies empty and unused, despite the fact that a train could easily run from here to Moscow in only 11 days. A 6 week shorter trip than a cargo ship takes at the moment. 

The hope isn't to travel to North Korea, but rather just to be allowed to pass through. A link like this to China and beyond would prove incredibly beneficial to the South Koreans. I could even get from Seoul to Glasgow by train! Imagine the entirety of two continents connected by rail? Maybe some day!

The busiest market in Seoul, Namdaemum, is a sight to see. I know I said I didn't want to shop, but just wandering in this endless maze is an experience not to be missed!

The National War Memorial of Korea is beautifully set back from a busy main thoroughfare. Surrounded by serene gardens and ponds and fountains, it is a great way to relax in the sunshine. Outside there's an array of military hardware, including tanks, helicopters, missiles and USAF bombers. Whilst inside it is harrowing (the truth of war often is,) the outside is peaceful and respectful.

The most poignant thing I have either heard or seen on my trip thus far. When NK invaded the South, it took mere days for over 35 different countries in the world to come to their aid. From the U.S., to Norway, to Uganda; countries sent money, food, weapons and soldiers in the fight for peace. If it could be done then, it can be done now, every nation has a duty to help others torn from their peaceful lives, even if the situation in Europe is entirely different, people still need help. The South Koreans will forever be grateful for those who answered the call, and so, I feel, would others.

So it's another chapter over. This sees the end of my solo wanderings (for now.) I spend a night in Hong Kong, in The Hotel Indigo (best decision I ever made) thanks to my staff discount (I MISS YOU GUYS) and then meet up with my group.

A night to regroup, with a double bed, my own bathroom and a room all to myself. I can barely contain my excitement! My hostels have been great so far, if - at times - a little quiet, but I can't complain.

It was a 4am start this morning and it'll be a long bloomin day of travelling including an airline I've never heard of, who very nearly didn't check me in because they believe I'm breaking immigration laws. Because I have a visa for China in my passport but no international ticket to enter China, I'm breaking a law? But I have an address in Hong Kong, and surely people stay in Hong Kong all the time before moving onto mainland China? I don't know what I expected from a £40 ticket, but if I get arrested on the other side, it was lovely knowing you all!

Another country ticked off the list, another one just waiting to be explored (if I get that far.)

This backpacker is off for her flight!

S x