The Girl Adventure Almost Forgot

"It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road and if you don't keep your feet, there's no telling where you might be swept off to."

J.R.R Tolkien - The Lord of the Rings

If you know me, you know that months before I left and indeed every time someone asked me, my answer was always New Zealand. 

Where are you most excited for?

What are you looking forward to?

Where do you think you'll settle?

Where do you most want to work?

New Zealand. Maybe because it's so like home. Maybe I knew I'd be comfortable here.

That isn't to say that all the countries and all the countless activities before this point haven't been incredible, or life changing or awe inspiring, because they absolutely were. 

Climbing Mount Fuji. Kayaking the Yangtze River. Gazing on the Terracotta Warriors. Sunrise at Angkor Wat. Sailing Halong Bay. Tubing in Laos. Sunbathing on Koh Tao. Meeting Orang-utans in the Bornean Jungle. Drinking Singapore Slings in Singapore. Partying on a boat in Sydney Harbour. 

Who is blessed enough to have a list that includes all of that and so, so much more? I can't quite believe it myself. In fact, you experience so many incredible things that they almost start to eclipse one another. It isn't until something someone says triggers a memory that you jump in saying "Oh, I've done that!" It's not that I've forgotten, it's just that so much more has happened since. I love that I have those triggers. I believe I'm a different person for having all those memories. Not a better person, just a different person.

I mean look at me, I've settled on the other side of the world, got myself a job, a tax number and a bank account. That is definitely different. Even if I have a can of Irn-Bru sat on the table in front of me as I write this.

So it's been a while since I updated! It's been a whirlwind and someday I will definitely get to writing it all down. Between The Philippines and now I have spent time in Borneo visiting Orang-utans, a beautiful week in Bali with a wonderful friend and an incredible four weeks in Sydney with family. 

But three weeks ago it was time for a new adventure. And maybe the hardest. I haven't been alone since those very first weeks in Japan and South Korea, with tours, teams, friends and family filling the time in between.

I won't lie, I sat in Sydney International Departure lounge and genuinely thought about paying for a flight home. I was so almost done. I had lulled myself into living like a normal person again whilst in Sydney. I had a room rather than a bunk in a dorm. We went out for breakfasts and lunches and dinners, to the cinema, I even shopped for new clothes. I was adopted into a giant friend group, almost entirely Glaswegian, making it even sound like home.

And then bam, I was sat by myself in a departure lounge awaiting a flight to a place I'd never been. I spent my first twenty four hours in Auckland feeling sorry for myself. Barely speaking, hardly ate and spent way too much time sleeping.

I woke the next morning, said hello to two girls in my dorm room, did a food shop and got over myself. The rain clouds cleared, the sun came out and I had a good talking to myself.

I was in New Zealand. The country I'd been excited for, for years. The land of Tolkien and volcanoes and snow capped mountains and lakes and scenery like nothing before. I'd already paid for my 12 month working visa, and because it hadn't been issued in time also paid for a flight to Fiji as my "proof of onward ticket" just so I could get into the country. I wasn't backing out now.

Also, I have a ticket to Fiji if anyone wants it.

I got myself a New Zealand phone number, booked myself onto the Kiwi Experience bus leaving Auckland sometime that week and contacted friends dotted around the country. I had wobbled, but I definitely had this.

Monday morning came around and I said goodbye to four friends I'd made in my hostel, one of which was celebrating her birthday by picking up a car with her friend. I made my way to the bus stop and someone must have been smiling on me because I made it onto a packed Kiwi Experience bus despite being told the odds weren't great. 

A bus packed with incredible people; solo travellers, couples, friends and spouses. I picked the best seat beside a wonderful gal and off we set!

On the East coast of the North Island, south of Auckland, is a tourist hot-spot called Hot Water Beach. The cold Pacific Ocean rolls in, but underneath the sand is a not-so-well-kept secret. Take a shovel and you can dig your own hot water pool. Between the rocks (if you go you'll know the ones) and the encroaching tide you'll find everyone crowded into homemade holes. We dig for ages, coming up with nothing, but the further we move in towards the crowds, the hotter it gets. Before long the water is too hot to even dip your toes in, a harmful 60 degrees centigrade according to the signs! The sun comes out, a few of us get sunburn and the whole afternoon has been a great way to get to know each other!

We take a hike along Comorandel Peninsula to Cathedral Cove this same day; a stunning secluded beach and bay and sit and soak up some rays.

Twenty of us are lucky enough to glamp on this first evening, setting up for the night in a giant teepee with camp-beds, tables, lamps, electricity and wine (supplied by us.) That first night, two English gals, this Scot and two Australians share stories over a competitive game of cards.

We leave Hot Water Beach for Waitomo. Home of the indigenous glow worm! And don't knock it, it was actually an incredible sight to see. Some of the group went caving, cliff diving, ziplining etc in these caves, but as I'd done it before in Laos (for much cheaper) I decided with some others just to do the guided walk and boat ride of the cave. 

Thousands upon thousands of glowowrms moulded to the cave ceilings make for spectacular viewing. It's like lying underneath the stars, but being a thousand times closer.

Suddenly, it's HOBBITON DAY! 

I'm almost certain the girls I shared a room with wanted to suffocate me just to stop me being like a kid on Christmas. I cannot exaggerate the excitement.

Half the group (one coach) drive straight to Rotorua this day, but my half (the cool half) make a pit stop at the Alexander Farm...more commonly known now as Hobbiton. Nestled in a 1200 acre sheep and dairy farm, the heart of The Shire is incredible. 

It's not just a movie set, it's everything combined to make something so magical. It's the little hobbit holes, the moss on the little fences, the signposts, the lamp posts, the washing lines, the smoke curling out of the chimneys, and the paths deliberately walked in the grass every morning by set makers to make it look so so real. The amount of detail poured in with so much love and care is breathtaking.

Some people only come to New Zealand because of The Lord of the Rings - and now The Hobbit - and I guess I get it. It's not a bad reason to get you here, just make sure it's not the only thing you do. Hobbiton is well worth it, it might even be up there with one of the best things I've ever done. I could have stayed there forever. In fact, I might look and see if there's any jobs going!

The excitement continues. My bus arrives in Rotorua, famous for its natural geysers and distinctive sulphur smell, but I don't stay. I have signed up for a Maori experience, inclusive of a nights accommodation in an authentic Maori village.

We are welcomed with a ceremony and a song, which we have to reciprocate. We have chosen a chief for the duration of our stay, and our song is Wannabe by the Spice Girls. No joke. We own it too. The men fall to the back of the group, because in Maori culture the women are the bringers of life and thus the most important, and the men must protect them. After our song we are treated to afternoon tea and cakes, all homemade, before we are taught some group games and activities. Such simple things, but so much fun as a group. We are also taught the Maori vowels in a song that has the same tune as "Stupid Cupid" that we are told we must perform to everyone after dinner. A dining hall full of around 200 people to be precise. We own that one too.

The rest of the night is spent learning about the culture of the Maori, complete with real welcome ceremonies, crafts and of course, The Haka. The original Haka, which is still to this day used by the All Black rugby team. It's sends chills through you to watch it in person.

The excitement doesn't end there. The following day is the big one. My stomach churns even thinking about it now. Who did we think we were, throwing ourselves out of aeroplanes? The rush, the adrenaline, the wind, the cold, the views, the perfect weather...not to mention landing back on Terra Firma afterwards. What a thrill. It might terrify you but honestly, it is the best thing you will ever do. Congrats to all the wonderful people on my bus that conquered their fears of flying and heights and all other manner of phobias. What a thing to be able to report!

Skydive. Tick.

We spend two nights in Taupo, on the edge of the largest crater lake in the Southern Hemisphere, big enough to swallow the country of Singpore whole. Surrounded by magnificent mountain ranges and active volcanoes, the backdrop to this little town is unbelievable. We skydived from 15,000 feet over this unbelievable setting. 

Mount Doom (Lord of the Rings again) formerly known as Mount Ngauruhoe sits sleepily in the background, snow capped and majestic, ringed by mountains and smaller volcanoes spitting out steam and sulphur.

We tackle the Tongariro Alpine Crossing the next day. A 19 kilometer walk over rugged terrain and up over one of these volcanoes takes the quickest of us 5.5 hours, and my group 6 hours up and down. The cloud is low and it's cold at the start, by the time we reach the summit the wind has picked up to a hairy 45 kilometres an hour and most of us fear for our lives at some point. I'm pretty sure there were "last" photos and videos being taken in case our bodies were never found (and somehow the cameras were.)

However, the clouds clear and the sun breaks through spectacularly by the time we get into our descent. I won't pretend it wasn't incredibly difficult, but it was so so worth it. Much alcohol is consumed in congratulation that night.

Climbed a volcano. Tick.

Our last full day and night together as a team sees us traveling to a place called River Valley. 

On our way we stop off at Taranaki Falls, included in New Zealand's Must See Waterfalls list.

 It's a beautiful walk through a beech forest and back over the hilltops with incredible views of Mt Ruapehu, Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro (from the range we tackled the day before.) It was hard going on sore muscles but hey, worse things have happened!

We sat and enjoyed a picnic lunch by the base of the waterfall - a perfect way to split up a day spent travelling on a bus.

River Valley is three hours from Taupo and four hours from Wellington, I am not exaggerating when I say this place is in the middle of nowhere. Our driver even wakes us up and tells us to open our eyes as we round the side of a cliff before we descend into the valley. Surely hundreds of miles in every direction is just lush green rolling hills, straight out of a Lord of the rings panoramic sweep. We all gasp as we soak it all in, and we drive deeper into the uninhabited valley.

We stay at a holiday lodge on the banks of a river. It's serene, picturesque and so calmly beautiful. White water rafting and horse trekking are on offer during our stay here, and it's voted the best place to do either in New Zealand. It cannot be described in words. You have to see this place. We sunbathe by and swim in the river, cliff jump and relax together, recuperating after a lot of walking, hiking and adrenaline in the previous few days. We celebrating one of the girls birthdays, enjoy an all you can eat buffet, many drinks and party games that give everyone a great night and great memories!

Our final day together we spend on our way to Wellington. We don't leave until the afternoon to give us time to enjoy the tranquility and peace (and nurse our hangovers) and arrive in the capital just after dinner. Unfortunately some of the bus only have the one night in Wellington before moving on to the South Island, and everyone is going the same way at some point so I spend the next few nights catching up with and saying goodbye to everyone as they come and go!

A moody looking Wellington. January 2016. Summer.

So, you see, I get it. It's bigger and scarier than anything you can imagine, but it's also the best thing you'll ever do. It still continues to be the best thing I've ever done. You just need to pick yourself up and remind yourself of why.

I wobbled, and if I'd given in to the wobble, look at all I wouldn't have accomplished or done? No sky dive, no volcano, no sore muscles (in a good way) less wonderful people I'm lucky enough to call friends.

So when you're doubting yourself, remember we've all been there - or are nearly there - and if you were brave enough to come away in the first place, you're brave enough to do it again.

I wish all the people on my bus all the best in the South, I hope you have a fabulous time and I'll see some of you on your trips back up! 

This backpacker turned working professional is logging out, for now.

Next update will be all about my new city! 

S x

Goodbye China - Shanghai to Macau!

Our tour has allocated us 4 nights in Shanghai, and it becomes clear that unfortunately this part has been almost thrown together. There are few day activities and no "unmissable" activities like we've had in all the other places, and yet they have three nights out planned for us - in a row. Fair enough we are nearing the end of our tour, the mad rush around China is over and we have more time just to chill. We arrive off a four and a half hour private bus, grab ourselves some dinner and get ready for the Shanghai pub crawl!

It's all you can drink in the first bar, free shots on the bus between each bar, free shots in the second and third bars and a free drink in the final nightclub. The first bar pour four shots of vodka in and mix it with one shot of orange juice. This continues for most of the night. All but one of our group joined in the crawl and we have a really enjoyable time - made better by the fact that it's not just us, we're joined by Belgians, Kiwis, Irish and many more. 

Unfortunately the night ends on a low note when we're treated like absolute scum by the Chinese bouncers in the final nightclub. It's glaringly obvious they don't like westerners and the club is far too pretentious for any of us to enjoy ourselves. We're pushed, shoved and even decked to the floor at one point before we give up and head home. The mood only decreases with some of the group when the England rugby score filters through, as they were playing as we were out. Oops? My sympathies...no, really...maybe.

That second day is a hangover day. We venture round the local area during the day, but wait till teatime to take a stroll along the longest shopping street in China (Nanjing Road) to the bund. The rain is heavy by this point, but it doesn't hamper the view. I take back what I said about Hong Kong, Shanghai's quirky statement skyline is definitely the best in the world. So far.

We opt not to do KTV (we move it to the next night) and take our hungover, wet selves back to the hostel and have a much needed early night.

The third day we are taken out of Shanghai to an ancient water town which professes to be the Venice of China. Trust me, it's not. It's rundown, shabby, cheap and tacky. Every stall and shop sells the same stuff; from disgusting food (both in appearance and smell,) to tacky wares, making it a drag rather than an enjoyable stroll. I'm sure if the weather had been better we may have enjoyed it more, but unfortunately the cloud and cooler temperature had followed us to Shanghai too.

Night three is KTV night. Some of the group are apprehensive about singing, but it's not like Karaoke at home, KTV is a big deal in Asia, and whilst the one we go to isn't the best one I've been in, it's still better than some dingy club in Glasgow. We pile into our private booth, alcohol in hand and start searching the songs. We have the room booked for three hours, but by the time 1am rolls around, most of us have no voices and are sick of singing. 

As it was another late night we don't start until around midday the next day. We take it upon ourselves to entertain ourselves and buy tickets for the hop on hop off bus tour and enjoy an open top bus tour of the city in clear, sunny weather. We hit up one of the biggest fake goods markets in Shanghai, have ourselves some lunch and then head back to the Bund. This time a small group of us head up to the rooftop bar of a hotel opposite the skyline for the best view in the city. We're not disappointed. We pay the equivalent of £10 for two free drinks (cocktails or wine or beer or softs) and a snack each (a big plate of either chicken wings or spring rolls.) It's more than worth it, you can see the whole city spread out in front of you, both sides of the river, the weather was clear and the atmosphere perfect. The absolute highlight of my time in Shnghai. I even managed to FaceTime from the top of this hotel just to rub it in someone's face.

Most of the group head out for a Korean BBQ that night, but as I'm struck down with the cold, I make the most of an empty dorm and have myself a twenty minute hot shower, pack up my shit and crawl into bed with a book. Bliss. It's the small things you start to appreciate on a trip like this.

I pack up because the next day we head off early for a nine hour bullet train to Nanjing. 2000  kilometres - the equivalent of Glasgow to Moscow - in 9 hours isn't bad, but none of us look forward to it. 9 hours in one spot isn't fantastic, and we feel like we're wasting a day, but this country is so huge that a journey like this is normal!

We disembark at Nanjing station (Nanjing is the ancient capital of China,) but we are immediately onto a private coach for a two hour journey to Fujian. This trip has been a lot of travelling, but to pack one of the biggest countries in the world into 25 days, it has to be done.

Fujian is magical. The scenery is astoundingly beautiful, the local family we stay with is the friendliest, most welcoming family we've met our entire time in China and the weather (at least the first day) is perfect. We spend two days here, our first night in a roundhouse (one of the oldest in China - more below) and our second night in a hostel. It's two different kind of lives in China and we embrace both. Throw in a hike, a scenic walk and a 20km bike ride, our time in the idyllic countryside is not wasted.

We jump on a night train the next night - the last of this trip - and spend our last night in mainland China speeding once again through unknown lands. It's short this time, and we disembark at 7am in Guangzhou, board a two and a half hour public bus and end at the Gumbei border crossing. It really is goodbye to China as we queue at immigration once more, and before we know it, we're in Macau.

The signs change to Portuguese but the people stay the same. It's bizarre to say the least. 

Fun Facts! 

1. Macau's revenue is five times that of Vegas. 
2. It has never had a downturn in all its years until now. The Chinese government is cracking down on its nationals gambling (it's against the law in China) especially public servants who might be thought to be embezzling.
3. If you go four hours in any direction from Macau you can reach half of the worlds population - India, China, SE Asia. Beat that America!

The building on the right is the tallest building in China and is also a third higher again than the one on the left. Doesn't look it but the one on the right is several city blocks back. It's much, much higher in person.

This one was taken from the Vue Bar at the top of the Hyatt hotel on the opposite side of the bund. The views of Shangai are incredible, from the harbour to the city centre, and there's even a hottub. Well worth the entrance fee, of you're ever in Shanghai don't hesitate!

The gals before KTV. No more needs to be said really.

The stunning Fujian. Home to the oldest roundhouses and tea plantations in China. We had a tea tasting "ceremony" in one of the roundhouses where we got to taste - and buy - six different kinds of local tea. From black to green to ladies to men's. All good for you in different ways. All prepared and brewed in different ways too. Incredibly fascinating.

This is the oldest roundhouse in China at nearly 1000 years old. The biggest of these can have up to 300 rooms shared between many families. The ground floor is always kitchens, the second floor usually a living area and the third and fourth are occupied by the old and the young resectively. Each family has a vertical "slot" in the roundhouse rather than a horizontal "flat/apartment." These are incredibly basic living quarters. While residents may have cable TV or cell phones, the roundhouses themselves are dirty, old, falling apart and quite frankly grim on the inside. It's no way of life. I guess they are looked back on like the high rises are now seen in the UK. Times have moved on, but life in the roundhouse hasn't. One we visited had so many bones on the ground we almost walked out, and we woke up to the cacophony of dogs barking as one was being slaughtered on our first morning.

Mountain biking in the rain rounded off our last day in the middle of nowhere. The family we stayed with provided us with the bikes, transport, unlimited free water and even a party that evening. We were given permission to use the town stage and speaker system to throw ourselves a little "Leaving China" party.

In Macau we visited The Venetian, the largest casino in the world where, yeah you guessed it, they've built Venice. Canals and gondolas wind their way through a massively expensive shopping mall and around the casino itself. I managed to triple my money on a roulette table, but sad to say it won't be enough to pay for another six months of backpacking. Damn! It did however, pay for an expensive icecream, with change, while a group of us watched two of our team do the highest bungee in the world. Both the price and the bungee part put me off I'm afraid! Maybe in NZ!

Team Sticky Rice - because it's all we've eaten, and because we've looked after each other and stuck by one another for the last month. My trip would not have been as amazing with every single one of these guys and I wish them all the best in their coming adventures. Between us we have most of the globe covered in the coming months and I know there's a few sofas I can check in on from time to time.

So it's time to say goodbye to China. Again.

I stand by what I've always said. This country is hard to love. It's people are rude, disrespectful, impolite, impatient and have no idea what personal space is. They will gawk and shove a camera in your face. They will follow you around, hacking up phlegm and spitting it out beside you. They will deck you to the floor if it means getting somewhere two seconds faster. They will completely disregard you just because you're a westerner. Their toilets and public spaces are disgustingly dirty and their food is NOT as good as you think.

If you can get passed all the little things - which I know for a fact some of my friends and family couldn't - then you'll enjoy your time here. I know we've all been fed up of at least one aspect in the time that we've been here. I for one am sick of being treated like a circus animal, and if someone shoves a phone in my face to take a picture, I take it off them. You guys, I think some of you would get stuck on the showers above squat toilets, or the lack of doors on squats. I know for a fact some of you wouldn't cope with that. Oh, how we can laugh about it now.

But it's been 4 weeks of absolute wonders. I've seen things more ancient than you can imagine. More crazy, more opulent, more dirty, more grand and more unbelievable. Not to mention cute. PANDAS. We've had difficult hikes, relaxing bike rides, idyllic rafting, and some terrible singing. I've loved every minute of experiences and loved spending time with the nineteen others in my group.

I even know an incredible way to get rid of mosquito bites - sunburn them to hell. I had two before I suffered my sun stroke and they were gone within hours. Not recommended however. Do not do that at home. I have 14 mosquito bites at the moment, so when you're packing, remember that no amount of Deet is enough amount of Deet. Just saying.

This backpacker is checking out. I'm back in Hong Kong and ready for a new adventure.

I am genuinely sad to be parting from my group, but I know I'll see them again, whether in their native country or somewhere on the road in the coming months and I know we'll have a blast when the time comes.

But for now, it's goodnight. Farewell China. Next stop Bangkok!

S x

Beijing & Moganshan

Ah, the hustle and bustle and endless noise of this capital. I didn't miss it, but a part of me feels somewhat accomplished to have returned. Finally.

Two years ago I had an amazing time with a diverse group of people at university in Tianjin - a city just South-East of Beijing. It was the furthest from home I'd ever been. It was the first time I'd been out of the UK by myself. I worked hard for it, and worked hard while I was here. I enjoyed every single minute. The people, my roommates, the culture, the classes, the learning. And here I am again!

It's sort of like I've come full circle even though I'm only at the start of my long backpacking journey. I returned to Glasgow in September 2013 and almost didn't return to uni. I'd seen a different world; the last thing I wanted to do was return to Uni and go back to normality.

In the end, the bursaries and loans swung it. Not the fact I'd get a degree, but that I was getting paid to do so. That's when the saving started. I spent my final year of uni trying to put away as much as possible. My 21st came and went and some more money went in the pot. I moved home 2 months early and started straight into a full time job, sacrificing time with housemates and coursemates. My last loan instalment went straight into my savings account and I realised it was worth it.

Eighteen months after that last loan installment I jetted off to Tokyo. Definitely worth it. I worked all the hours I could (company and time permitting,) made life long friends at work and earned every dime. And here I am. Boom, circle complete.

So if anyone says it's easy, it's not. If someone says their mum and dad paid for it, trust me it's not as worthwhile. Work for it and you earn it. It's the best sort of feeling. I've only been away 4.5 weeks and already I've had the most amazing time. I've met people I never would and feel confident in calling some friends.

So Beijing, thanks for having me back!

The weather is shit. Honestly, horrendous. The rain hasn't stopped for two days, but the day trips have continued. We disembark a night train at 6am and are greeted by blaring horns and more stares. We arrive at our hostel and stuff our faces on western breakfasts. All but three of us take part in the first outing, The Temple of Heaven, two of us opt out as we've done it before and one of the girls is dead on her feet. We crawl into the room the group has left their luggage in and sleep amongst them for a couple of hours. We check in around midday and make full use of the best showers we've had in weeks. Powerful and hot with a waterfall function, I have to tear myself out. There's a bug going around our group and has taken at least 6 people victim already, and I have the dodgy stomach version, not fabulous in a country with squat toilets I tell you. Backpacking is super glamorous, didn't you know?!

We are treated to an acrobatic show on our first evening, and while only around half of us go, we are blown away. It's exciting, funny, thrilling and sickening all at the same time. It ranges from girls spinning plates while balancing on their heads, to guys flipping themselves through 10 foot high rings, to guys speeding motor around a steel cage in motorbikes. Five of them in a giant hamster ball. That part made me feel a little queasy.

Day two sees the rest of my group head off to Tiananmen Square and The Forbidden City. I've done this extensively before, and I am feeling worse than the day before so I stay in easy reach of a bathroom for the day. They return soggy and cold, and we all curl up in our hostel's movie room to watch a film in the warmth. The rest of the night is spent much the same way, dinner, some have a few drinks, another movie is popped in, and I sleep even more. I wake at 6am with my glasses and clothes still on. Seems I really needed the rest!

Day three in Beijing sees us heading on a camping trip. The fact that it's been pouring for days lies heavy at the back of our minds. We are the last group of the year to even be scheduled to camp on The Great Wall, as it's too cold once October hits, but we're not even sure it will happen.

The sun is shining in Beijing this morning and we pile onto a bus to the Olympic Park. Last time I was in the capital there was a thunderstorm and the trip was cancelled, so I'm looking forward to it. Yeah, it's just another stadium, but it's interesting to hear how Beijing people actually feel about the Olympics. Everyone in China saw it as a massive success for the country on the international stage, but people in the capital hated it. They don't like that ever since 2008, companies have commercialised their once smaller city, surrounding it in pollution and smog. They didn't like the added risk of millions of people travelling to their city and visiting their sacred places (risk of terrorism,) and nor do they like the money the government poured into it.

1. Yes, the Bird's Nest was never finished. No, it wasn't supposed to look like that despite what the Chinese want you to believe.
2. No, the fireworks of the opening and closing ceremonies were not live. They were filmed over a series of nights (when the weather was good) and superimposed as needed.
3. The Birds Nest is never used (except on the world stage - the World Athletic Anniversary Games were held there only a month ago,) so the Chinese government spent even more money building a smaller stadium just next door. Ludicrous.
4. Beijing people are not thrilled that their city has been chosen to hold the Winter Olympics in 2022. They didn't want it the first time, a second time has them up in arms. Despite them being the only city to hold both (you'd think maybe they'd be proud?)

We eventually leave a sunny Beijing behind us and bus the two and a half hours towards the Wall before squeezing into a farmhouse. In the pelting rain. The weather front seems to have beaten us here, and as we sit outside and gobble down a homemade dinner, it only gets worse. The wind picks up, the temperature drops to around 10 degrees Celsius and the rain continues to hammer on the tin roof above us.

It doesn't take long for the group to decide it would be 1) too dangerous to hike up in the dark in those conditions & 2) we'd all be soggy, miserable messes for the next 12 hours. We opt to stay at the farmhouse (the worst accommodation we've seen on our tour) make our own little campfire, toast marshmallows and play games for a few hours. At least we were under a roof and sort of warm. The beds are basically large tables with sheets on top and five of us sleep in each one. Everything is damp, nothing is particularly clean and the wind doesn't stop. We huddle, shivering, together and fall into a short-lived sleep.

We're up at 4.45am the next morning, and are happy to report to whoever hasn't made it out of the room and into the cold morning air, that yes it is clear, and yes we can see stars and the moon. Maybe sunrise on the Great Wall will happen after all!

We set off hungry and still half asleep, and hike the 35 minutes to the section of unrestored wall the government has granted us permission to visit. No tourists are allowed here, and the tranquility is astounding. The only noises are us puffing in the cold air, and the wind howling through the trees. At the top it only strengthens, the wind gusting at around 60mph, making it hard to stand let alone climb, but we persevere and set off along the unrestored section as the sun makes its ascent.

Even as someone who has seen - and climbed - The Wall before, albeit a tourist section, it doesn't fail to hit me. The magnitude and beauty of both the wall itself and the surrounding area is enough to take your breath away. Or maybe it was the wind? We don't stay as long as we'd like, due to the sheer strength of the wind and the bitter cold of the morning air - half the group haven't packed warm clothes at all and I am thanking myself for deciding to bring my hoodie in the end - and many of us comment on it being a bit like a coastal walk at home. The staggering difference between the weather and temperature in Beijing compared to the 30 degree heat awaiting us in Shanghai is mind-blowing. 

Despite not camping; the whole team seemed to enjoy the experience. How many people can say they've watched the sun rise on The Great Wall of China? Not a lot of people can even say they've seen it for themselves (twice, ha,) so a sense of accomplishment still rings through us, I think.

It takes us most of the two and a half hour journey back to Beijing to warm up, but the fact that those waterfall showers are awaiting us is like the light at the end of the happy but tiring tunnel.

It seems our time in Beijing has been short lived. Even those who took part in the planned activities say they feel they haven't seen enough of the city, and I agree. My second trip has solidified how much I love this city however. It's nothing like Hong Kong or Tokyo, and I feel I misjudged it last time. I would be more than happy to return and spend more time in China's northern capital.

The relaxed part of a thrilling and daring evening. I was in too much shock to take any pictures of those parts!

The unfinished stadium that barely gets used. Wish I'd been here a month ago to see Usain Bolt beat Justin Gatlin! Olympic park doesn't have a great feel when there aren't 150,000 sports fans wandering around.

We were so lucky to get a beautifully clear morning for a sunrise in this magical part of the world. These photos don't do justice to how hard it was to even stand in the winds that were blowing! Worth it though, eh?

However, it's onwards and southwards! We've reached the tip of our tour in China and it's time to head back south into the warmth. Our next destination is Hangzhou, and it's another 15 hour night train to get there. I'd squeezed into my top bunk, less than four foot from the ceiling, with three Chinese men for company around me to write the bulk of this. We aren't lingering in Hangzhou - the third biggest city in mainland China - instead heading to Moganshan - a bamboo nature reserve two hours north for a quiet twenty-four hours.

Moganshan is the "resort" for the rich and famous for Shanghai, and straight away it's obvious there is money here. The houses hat are built and still being built are better than any we've seen, with wrought iron gates and big expensive western cars sitting outside. 

We are blessed with beautiful weather, and enjoy two days of relaxing walks and a swim in a natural lagoon. Absolute bliss and perfect to wind down before the hustle and bustle of another big city!

We spent an hour walking to this secluded lagoon and then the same again splashing around in the sun before drying out on the rocks for a while. The Chinese - who don't ever get in the water - were loving the stupid westerners getting in the freezing water, but we had a blast!

With half the group still sick it's probably a good thing we've been taking it easy for a few days!

It's onwards again after only twenty four hours here, next stop Shanghai! Whoop!

This backpacker is away to test the showers in the new place.

S x

Chengdu, Xi'an & Shaolin

Chengdu is the capital of Sichuan Province and the experiences just kept rolling.

We truck ourselves and all our stuff off our 25 hour night train and onto the packed Chengdu metro. It becomes clear then - and throughout our stay in Chengdu and Xi'an - that people here have never seen so many westerners, or a ginger in their lives. 

It's funny to notice the differences. They see a blonde and go "wow, amazing," but they see a ginger and go "what the fuck is that?!" It's clear they just don't understand. They're trying to work out whether I'm like the Koreans and have dyed my hair a crazy colour, or if it's real, and if it is real then 'oh my god that's unbelievable.'

So while you sort of get used to being a circus act, walking into a waiting room in Chengdu station and having around 600 people turn and stare, is something you find bizzarre to say the least.

Chengdu as a city isn't a great wonder to behold. It's another concrete jungle with apartment blocks being thrown up left right and centre, but we are only here for two nights before moving on again and we thoroughly enjoy our time.

Our first night we experience Sichuan Hot Pot. Where the oil (already seasoned and spiced) is brought to the table and put on the gas to cook. The outer ring is spicy while the inside isn't, and you can choose which to cook your food in. Our guide orders around 8 different things and they are brought, already sliced, and we slide them into our desired oil. The off putting thing about this meal is the crazy amount of oil. Not only is it cooked in it, you also have sesame oil in your own bowl to take the spice out of your food before you eat it. Let's just say it was a messy experience and I think the whole group agreed that it wasn't the best meal we'd ever had. But hey, it was something new!

Day 2. Where do I even begin to describe day 2 in Chengdu? The city is famous for a few things, but the most obvious, and the most beloved is that amazing black and white bear we as people just can't seem to get enough of. It was Panda time! One of the most exciting activities on the tour, I can safely say I probably annoyed my group by the sheer amount of times I said "PANDA, PANDA," in an excited chant on our way to the Panda Park. 

The Chengdu Panda Breeding Centre has researched the Giant Panda for over 30 years and thinks it's found the most sustainable way to save one of the oldest species on the planet. Did you know the average species life time is 5 million years, and that the Giant Panda is already at 8 million?

They are cared for, nurtured, watched closely, paired with hopeful mates, and in times when that isn't successful, artificially inseminated. The park now has just under 100 pandas living in it's expansive grounds from 2 weeks old to 20 years old.

I want one.

No, seriously. Kids ask their parents for ponies all the time. I want a panda. They're so cute!! However, another fun fact, they aren't soft and cuddly like you would expect. Panda fur is actually quite coarse. Bit of a disappointment, but still want one. And yes, while they didn't do anything other than eat bamboo at a rate you wouldn't believe, and sleep hanging from a tree, we all still had a wonderful day!

In the afternoon of panda day, half of our group took a trip to Leshan, an ancient city over two hours drive from Chengdu. Leshan's claim to fame is that it has the largest Buddha in the world, carved into the rock face overlooking the river. Another sight to behold. The pictures don't do this 23-story structure justice. It's almost like the two kings in Lord of the Rings if you can excuse me geeking out for a moment.

Our bus drops us off on the road at the head of the Buddha and our party descends single file down a staircase carved from the rock. It's slow going, but it gives you the best view of the Buddha itself. The bottom is literally selfie central but among all us tourists (mostly Chinese) there are two dozen Tibetan monks going through their praying ritual on their knees between the giant stone feet of the 1200 year old Buddha.

The only thing about descending 47 flights of stairs is that you have to climb back up!

We party the night away in the Jellyfish nightclub in Chengdu and pay for it the next day. So our final day is relaxed and hangover ridden. I drew the short straw and am sick all day, not able to keep anything down including water, so I spend most of my day lying on the sofa in my hostel while my group lunched and walked around the city centre.

At 9pm we board another night train - only 15 hours this time - and speed off North West again. Next destination Xi'an!

A more historic city, we don't see much of Xi'an only taking part in a 13km bike ride around the Ming Dynasty city walls. The most complete ancient city walls in China. We are based here for a sole reason - The Terracotta Warriors (below.)

The next day we try our hand at a public coach and spend 6 hours driving into the countryside towards Dengfeng, the home of the Shaolin temple and the ancient home of Kung Fu.

We are treated to a show and Kung Fu lesson at a local school, where our money goes directly to their studies and training. The kids are aged between 7 and 16, and are more talented than you would believe. Hand stands on two fingers, breaking cement blocks with one hand, and much more. Despite being bitten alive by mosquitos (I added 8 more fresh bites to my collection) we had a great night in the rural countryside. The next day we go to Shaolin Temple, trek up to Dharma Cave (reminds you of something out of Lost) and watch a professional Kung Fu show, even better than the day before.

Despite an exhausting day we head to Zhengzhou, 2 hours from Shaolin, and board our third night train. The hardest one so far. We board at 10.15pm and disembark in Beijing at 6.10am. Barely half the group have had any sleep and we arrived bleary eyed at our hostel so early we can't check in.

2 years later I am back in Beijing, the beating heart of this country, and all I can think about is crawling into my bed later. 

With some of my group at the Sichuan Hot Pot dinner. Much spice, so much oil and plenty of free watery orange juice for everyone!

One of our group thought we were having a group photo taken beside some giant blobs. It wasn't until we were walking away that she realised they were pandas.

My absolute favourite experience so far. I WANT ONE.

These little guys are around 1/2 months old. I WANT ONE.

The biggest Buddha in the world at over 70 metres, carved out of the rock face on the river at Yeshan.

The night before the day I was sick as a dog. Definitely wasn't self inflicted. Definitely wasn't more than a bottle of vodka involved. Team.

The first emperor of all of China, the Qin Dynasty (pronounced 'Chin' - hence China) unified six countries to create this one big one. He started building his tomb at the age of 13, the biggest in the world at 52 square kilometres and 200 metres deep. He decided he needed 7000+ terracotta warriors to protect him in the afterlife. His body has never been exhumed as legend says his body is surrounded by rivers of mercury. Good ruse if it's a lie. 2000 years ago the guy was responsible for the creation of the country we know as China, and for building 5-lane highways lined with trees that are still in use today. 2000 years ago! Take that Romans!

The kids at this school are either orphans or come from some of the poorest families in the region. Poverty here is more obvious than anywhere we have previously been, but statistically 500 million people in China have lifted themselves out of dire poverty since 2006. 9 years has changed this country irrevocably. This school relies solely on donations, so pictures and videos of westerners are welcomed to make them seem more legitimate. 2 of the students graduate in June, when 1 wants to join the army, and 1 is heading to the movies.

On our final day we visit Shaolin Temple, and hike up one of the neighbouring mountains to Dharma Cave where Dharma himself meditated for 9 years. The temple was originally Taoist until the Indian monk changed it to Buddhism. The temple has been destroyed more than 15 times in it's past, but still stands today. This statue is atop the mountain that took us around 45 minutes to climb. 

This backpacker is exhausted, so I'm skipping this morning's activity - The Temple of Heaven (as I've already done it) - to find a sofa to curl up on until I can check into my room.

S x

Hong Kong & The Start Of my Tour

Much like Tokyo, I fell in love with Hong Kong in a matter of hours; the buzz and the lights. Yeah, it's yet another city, but it's hard not to be enraptured by the life of this place.

I arrive first thing in the morning, and by the time I've battled my way through immigration, declared nothing at customs, waited over an hour for my bag to arrive on the conveyer belt (yes, I was beginning to panic,) grabbed a western lunch, converted my money, caught a train and arrived at my hotel, it's already the middle of the afternoon!

The taxi ride from the airport, while quiet, is eye-opening. We pass the port first, the fourth largest in the world, and being from little populated Scotland, I've seen nothing like it before! It seems to go on for miles before we wind our way through busy streets bustling with people, double-parked cars and markets galore. My taxi door is opened for me, my bag makes it to the lobby before I do, I'm greeted by name, checked in quickly, given a voucher for a free drink in the rooftop bar and most importantly, filled in on my upgrade. Sure, it's an "access" room, normally for someone in a wheelchair, but I'm assured it's better than I paid for. I'm situated on the top floor, escorted up by the bellhop, and invited in. Now, let me just say here, that all through my life it's been Travellodge and Holiday Inn Expresses. I have never been in a hotel room like this. King size bed, panoramic windows, a waterfall shower, jet bathtub, and a mini bar that must cost £100 to stock.

I shower and settle myself in, making full use of the button beside my bed that controls the blackout curtains and blinds. I barely move. I sew a couple of badges onto my bag (my only souvenirs,) chill out to some music and finally take a nap. It's the downtime I was so desperately looking forward to, and it didn't disappoint.

I treat myself to dinner in the hotel restaurant, that cost 3 times as much as lunch before heading out into the Hong Kong night. 8pm and 30 degrees Celsius. I do my best not to melt. My hotel was situated in Hong Kong Island, and it's only a 10 minute walk until I'm at the Star Ferry Pier. The sun has set and the "show" is on. I cross over to the opposite side from Victoria Harbour and gaze in wonder at the spectacle before me.

It's 30 degrees and around 80% humidity, even at 9pm at night so I don't last long before heading back to my hotel room. Honestly, I think I had the best sleep I could imagine to help me kick off the rest of my time in China. The biggest advice I can give you if you're backpacking for a lengthy period of time, is to treat yourself. One night in the Indigo in Hong Kong cost me £60 including breakfast (which is 10x more than a night in a hostel,) but a night to yourself is priceless. I am already looking forward to my dirt cheap 4 star hotel in Bangkok at the end of this tour and the beginning of the next.

I spent the first week of my journey constantly keeping tabs of what I was spending, worried that it'd be too much, but at the same time wanting to know for future how much money would last me a certain amount of time.

I met my group early Wednesday morning and through bleary eyes we set off on our first adventure together. 20 complete strangers, couples, teenagers, solo backpackers and some honeymooners thrown together. And it's been great so far, we've all clicked, and we've all mingled with each other. It's great that there's a good number of us, because it means we won't be spending all day every day with the same people.

The Peak. We travel up to the highest point in Hong Kong, in Kowloom, opposite Hong Kong Island, and soak in the early morning views. On one side, the sprawling cityscape of Hong Kong, on the other the endless ocean and many islands that make up greater Hong Kong. You can judge the size of this city just by the vast number of cargo ships sailing to and from the harbour.

10 hours travelling and dinner. We leave Hong Kong for Shenzen and cross the border into China through the train station before catching a bullet train to Guilin. We then board a tiny Chinese size bus to Yangshuo and arrive to moonlit mountains and buzzing markets.

On day two in Yangshuo we take a bike ride through the town and into the country, along the river and into the mountains. While cycling on a busy Chinese road was an experience, none of us were harmed and we all thoroughly enjoyed our day. We then boarded bamboo rafts (above) and floated down the river, steered expertly by gondola-style drivers. It was hard work! While soaking in the scenery, the "drivers" splash us and even stop for a beer. After a long-awaited shower and a group dinner, a group of us head for a massage and hot cupping. Releasing the tension from weeks of carting round a backpack almost as big as myself, my shoulders felt brand new again!

Day 3, we tackle the Moon hill, a special place in Yangshuo, aptly named as there is a crescent missing from the landscape. At only 450 feet up, it's not the highest hill you'll ever climb, but it's worth it for the view and the breeze at the top! We continue this day with mud baths and hotsprings to once again rid ourselves of the fatigue and sticky sweatiness. 

We finish this day by experiencing Commorant fishing (the HSBC advert in the UK,) where the fisherman uses birds to catch his prey rather than a net. It's amazing to watch these birds dive into the deep river and return with a fish caught in it's beak. An elastic band around it's throat stops it from swallowing the fish and it delivers it to the feet of the fisherman. A beautiful boat trip under the moonlight and dominant lit-up mountains!

On our final day in Yansghuo we get out of bed for an early morning kayak down the Yangtze. While I got sunstroke and purple legs, we all enjoyed it. It was hard work, but the scenery was worth it. We've bonded so much in such a short period of time just from the sheer magnitude of things we've done together. I've never kayaked before, but I made it to the end!

We finish this day with a special village tour to the home of one of our guides. An eye-opening experience of both poverty and politics in the country, where we are treated to homemade tea, dinner and spectacular views.

Unfortunately our time in Yangshuo comes to an end. We board a 25 hour night train from Guilin to Chengdu, the capital city of Sichuan province. We're half way into it when we discover we could have done the same journey on a bullet train for 8 hours! It's all part of the Chinese experience however, and we spend hours talking, laughing, playing games and sleeping. The sleeping definitely helps. And while I've never been in a smaller bunk, with as little space, I am rocked to sleep under the aircon. It's not glamorous in the slightest, Chinese vendors pass up and down every ten minutes trying to sell their wares, the music and the lights come blaring on at 7am sharp and the toilets are something else entirely. While in china you have to get used to squat toilets, it's either that or you don't go at all. A squat toilet on a train is a whole other kettle of fish. These aren't steady, smooth trains, and squat toilets are hard enough as it is. Let's just say your skill should be much improved by the end of the 25 hours. And honestly, they were clean and not all that bad. I've been in worse in high-tech stations and airports.

I've arrived in Chengdu, and tomorrow I'm heading to the Panda Research Centre. (SO EXCITED,) so it's an early night in this substantially cooler city. There's no suffocating humidity here and I'm so thankful to be out of it even if just for the night.

This backpacker is heading to bed. Gotta get ready to smuggle a panda out tomorrow.

S x

Sayonara!

“Go back?” he thought. “No good at all! Go sideways? Impossible! Go forward? Only thing to do! On we go!”

- Bilbo Baggins, The Hobbit

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

So this is technically the first of my official travel blogs! Even though I'm only sat in Heathrow airport - I have technically gone somewhere.

Greeted by a woman who was clearly having a bad day, I knew I'd arrived in London. Sorry, but you're not the friendliest city in the world guys! 

After the disappointment of a British Airways flight that was no more than a Ryanair plane with a different sticker on it's tail, I am excited to get on my way, only to find that my Virgin Atlantic flight isn't even run by Virgin. The guy at the check in desk (way more friendly this time) was adamant that Virgin don't fly to Tokyo. Well, here I am, going to Tokyo, you can imagine the sinking in my stomach. After many phone calls and discussions it's found that I need to head to the ANA desk - stands for All Nippon Airways - of course we've all heard of them! (Who?) So great, now I'm sat wondering what kind of metal tube I'm going to be transported to the other side of the world in.

I've only flown long haul once, but clearly that's enough to make anyone a snob. Emirates, I love you, ANA I have my dubious thoughts. But hey, I'm checked in, my phone is plugged in and charging and I only have 13 more hours until I'm in Tokyo.

Tokyo. I mean, what? The most populous metropolitan area in the world, followed closely by Seoul (going there in a week) and Shanghai (will be there in approx 4 weeks!) Close to 14 million people live in Tokyo, and then there will be me. Two backpacks on, sweating and looking undoubtedly lost. If I can get from the airport to my hostel via subway (that's mostly in Japanese characters) I'll then know I can do anything. If not, you'll find me crying in a not-so-quiet corner of the airport somewhere determined to come home. See, I clearly have high hopes for this trip.

My stomach has been fluttering - no, wrong word - buzzing, sickening me for days. Did I sleep last night? Don't think so. Will I sleep on my flight? Doubtful. I'm a mess of nerves, excitement and absolute wonder because I have no idea what I've let myself in for and I find it so hard to imagine myself somewhere so amazing.  China never really sunk in, and now I'm wondering if the 7 countries I visit in the coming 12 weeks will.

The shrines, the temples, the markets, the people. The beaches, the jungles, the world heritage sites, the somber reminders and the thrilling activities. How do you begin to explain the feeling that has been growing in intensity even over the last hour? How do I begin to imagine what these places will be like? Except the Great Wall, I don't have to imagine that one, been there, done that. 

So here I sit surrounded by Burberry, Gucci, Bvlgari, Mulberry, Dior and Ted Baker (is it so hard to fit in a WHSmith somewhere) eagerly anticipating the start of this mahoosive adventure.

Hopefully the first of many posts from many a Utopia, I bid you Sayonara and I'll pop in again soon!

**Sayonara - From Japanese: the utterance of sayonara, the wishing of farewell to someone.