Kyoto & Osaka

"Never fear quarrels, but seek hazardous adventures." 

- Alexandre Dumas, The Three Musketeers

Where Tokyo was big and bright and busy and buzzing, Kyoto is it's shyer counterpart. The shops here close long before 10pm, the subway only has eleven lines - yes only - and it's population is only 1.3 million, a tenth of that of Tokyo.

It's a strange transition if I'm honest. For my first 24 hours in Kyoto I wasn't sure I even liked it, but the more I explored and the more wonders I saw, the more in love with it I fell. It has temples and shrines that predate anything still standing in the UK.  

I visited Fushimi Shrine on my first day. 5000 red gates that lead up a mountain in the South-east of the city. I took my time and enjoyed the atmosphere, despite getting soaked. Unfortunately there wasn't much to see as the weather wasn't great, but there a shrine sits, candles burning all the time, and people praying on bended knee; at the top of a mountain overlooking their precious city. That alone is a sight to see.

I filled my days here with temples, shrines, walks, history and food. My only words of advice would be, you don't need to spend more than 2 days here. I chose 4 nights and 4 days, and I struggled to fill them. Unless of course, unlike me you have no tattoos, then you could easily spend a day at a hot spring resort - fairly cheaply - relaxing and ridding yourself of the exhaustion that I find comes with backpacking.

9am to 9/10/11pm every day non-stop is exactly that, exhausting. It's so worth it, but at the same time I can't wait for a chill day. 

I spent my 3rd day here in Osaka, a much larger city around 40km away. I was told in advance that 1 day was plenty, so I took a day trip rather than staying the night. Osaka was both a hit and a miss. I won't pretend that my adventure has been completely plain sailing. It's been full of silly mistakes, stupid stress and way too many moments of doubt, but I guess that's what it's all about.

I decided to visit Shitennoji Temple (aptly named) and spent over 500¥ on a return subway ticket to a temple that was covered in scaffolding and empty of people. Not a great start. I opted not to pay the 300¥ entrance fee and walked around the free outside area before sitting a while and reevaluating the rest of my day. I felt stupid because it hadn't been easy to find, Japanese maps and street signs are clear as mud sometimes, and I'd wasted valuable money. 

Thankfully the rest of my day was superb. I visited Osaka Castle, impressive just to look at, which has been converted into a museum with eight floors, and an observatory on the top floor. This day, unfortunately, a tropical storm had moved in over this south western tip of the country and again, visibility was poor. I'm not exaggerating when I say I've never seen rain like it. Ew. You're either soaked with sweat, or soaked with rain. It's a lovely combination, I tell you.

I had a lovely noodle soup lunch here before setting off for the other side of the city. I was on my way to the docks on the wettest day possible but oh well, my day got infinitely better. Osaka is home to one of the largest aquariums in the world and I was so excited! The last time I visited an aquarium I was around 5 years old, so I was not disappointed by this trip. It cost me four times more than anything else I'd paid to do since arriving in Japan, but boy was in worth it.

Their exhibit is based on the Ring of Fire in the Pacific Basin, and the route takes you around, from the Antartic, to the Tasmin Sea to the reefs off Costa Rica to Monteray Bay (not in that order), exhibiting all the natural sea life from each of these places. IT'S MASSIVE at around a 1.6km walk in total and with 15 large tanks. The central tank, representing the Pacific Ocean itself, is walked around and around from the top floor to the bottom and you can take in all the creatures at the different depths they reside. It's so fascinating. Oh, and did I mention they have Whale Sharks? Over 4 feet longer than a great white they were certainly a presence that's for sure.

At the docks, there was also The Diamond Princess cruise ship, sitting docked for the night. As I left the aquarium around 7 o'clock, it was dark and everything was alight. The passengers were being treated to dockside entertainment from high school bands and dancers. And honestly, they didn't sound like high school bands. I stood for around 45 minutes, huddled under my umbrella, soaking up the atmosphere. Pun intended. Tropical Storm George was in full force by this point.

I think I learned from this day, that it's not all about "go, go go." I really enjoyed having fun and relaxing, maybe even more than I had trekking around all those temples! It's important to look after yourself, especially on the prospect of a very long, sometimes lonely trip. So if that means you spend two days in Osaka at the aquarium and then at Universal Studios (also one of the biggest) then so be it. I would have, I just didn't have enough time ;)

My four days in Kyoto and Osaka: 

The Fushimi Shrine - a picture you've no doubt seen before, but I TOOK THIS ONE :)

Kyoto Castle - complete with real - and original - nightingale floor that sings as you walk across it. It was an art in ancient Japan to learn how to cross a nightingale floor without it even whispering. Sadly I couldn't do it. No pictures are allowed inside structures like this as it can damage the wood, the carvings and the paper thin paintings. Amazing to experience though.

Toji Temple - the tallest pagoda in Japan. A zen temple, dedicated to Buddhism.

The Golden Pavilion in the north of the city is over 700 years old, and was the retirement villa of the Shogun of the time (leader of ancient Tokyo - Edo.)

Osaka castle, rebuilt after a lightning strike in 1650, but modeled after the original, is surrounded by a moat and sits 60 feet above the ground around it.

Me and the Whale Shark I made friends with. The one in the gift shop was much cuter, nearly bought one til' I remembered I'd have to sacrifice something else in my backpack - like my clothes. 

Osaka bayside. The Diamond Princess docked alongside the tallest Ferris wheel in Asia. I had a wonderful evening of free entertainment on the dock while the passengers all cheered on from their balconies. And yes, there was a tropical storm, my phone camera just didn't know it!

Kyoto Station has over 40 rail tracks, not including 11 subway lines and 18 bus routes that stop and start here. It has eleven floors and hosts nearly 2 million people a day - both domestic and international. Navigating this place was a serious issue at times, but at night the staircase up to the shopping levels comes alive and everyone sits back to relax and enjoy it. Welcome to Kyoto indeed!

Daikakuji Temple. The oldest original structure in Kyoto. This building dates back 1200 years, and as it has never burned down or been destroyed, it has never had to be rebuilt. Every floor and walkway is a nightingale floor. I still couldn't master it. It's covered walkways also have low roofs so that no one could swing a sword or spear. Talk about defences! You can hear them coming, and you've stopped them battling on your front steps!

Bamboo! Lots and lots of it! This bamboo pathway and forest is around 30 mins on the train to the west of Kyoto, a 1.5km walk from Daikakuji Temple (above.)

Fun Facts:

1. Kyoto was never bombed during the war - supposedly because world leaders knew how many precious artifacts presided here. Maybe that isn't the case, but I'd like to think it played a part!
2. On a 30 minute bullet train from Kyoto to Osaka (40km,) there's not a single free space to be seen. They are both so spread out they encroach on each other. You either live in one, or the other. Just think of all that green space between Glasgow and Edinburgh, or Manchester and Liverpool. It's all city here.
3. The seat backs on JR (Japan Rail) trains move so you can sit going backwards or forwards, or make it into a four facing your friends - it's your choice!
4. In Kyoto and Tokyo it is the norm to stay on the left side of the escalator to allow people to pass you, but in Osaka you stand on the right. Don't get it wrong now!
5. 90% of subway stations are underground shopping malls or streets. Especially between the stations that join up. There is a whole underground city going on, made up of restaurants, cafes, stalls and shops!
6. It only costs 38p for an international stamp - come on Royal Mail, what's the deal?!
7. Japan is NOT expensive. Not when you come with British Pounds anyways, maybe other currencies see a bigger difference. An expensive pint of beer will set you back £2.50, and an all day subway ticket in Tokyo a fiver. That's not as bad as you thought, huh?  So don't listen to anyone that says "ooooh, Japan's a bit expensive is it not?" on an intake of breath. It's honestly not.
8. There is genuinely a vending machine every hundred yards. Whether it contains drinks, food, cigarettes or ice cream, you never have to go far for your next fix.
9. You can smoke inside, but outside you have to be in a designated smoking area. So no standing outside the train station door puffing away. Get into the smokers shelter!
10. There are no bins - anywhere. Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, nope. Everyone carries their rubbish with them until they get home, or until they are inside a public building. You will usually find one in a train or subway station! And despite this, there isn't a speck of litter anywhere.

So it's time to bid farewell to Japan and move on to South Korea. I've had a jam-packed 8 days full of wonder and laughter. From the neon lights to the tranquility of the zen gardens, this country is amazing. And there's so much more to see! I've barely covered half of Honshu (the main island,) so there's ample reason for me to return, and I'm fairly certain I will!

Sayonara for much longer this time. Time to learn a few words in the next language!

It's an airport limousine (bus) to Osaka and then a flight to Seoul for me, what are you up to today?

Out x