Seoul

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving."

Albert Einstein.

I find my days here have been mixed. I feel like I haven't seen or experienced all that South Korea has to offer, but also seen and heard more than I could wrap my brain around. This country is not big, it might have a huge population (running theme these days) but it's area is relatively small, and I feel like more time would have been better served outside it's bustling capital.

Seoul - 10.1 million people, with a history of just under 3000 years and rife with war, death and turmoil. 

I was sat on the train from the airport, taking in everything around me, when the news flashed up on one of the TV screens (subtitled in English.) Top story, flashing across, that the Hyundai Motor workers were going on strike. Top of the bulletin, much like the migrant crisis or the new Labour leader at home. And then, some ten minutes later, a small segment only containing the words "NK 'likely' to launch another missile strike."

Yeah, we hear bits and pieces at home like this, but NK is less than 60km from Seoul. It's capital Pyeongyang, only 3.5 hours by train. These are their neighbours and this is normal. They live under constant threat from a regime in a country that should rightly be part of theirs. Everywhere you go, people talk about their shared history, about their stake in it all and about how much they want peace.

North and South Korea have been at war for 70 years. 70. It has never been declared over, and as an outsider looking in, it's clear it won't ever be in the near future. A ceasefire was declared in 1953, and a buffer zone created to keep the two sides apart. But is it enough?

I visited the National War Memorial of Korea on my last day in Seoul, a huge museum dedicated to both Korea's history and mainly the Korean War. It was busy, especially for a beautiful afternoon, but it seemed to me like no one was that affected. I found the whole thing harrowing and ridiculously upsetting. That brother should turn on brother under the direction of one dictator, who enlisted the help of Stalin (are we surprised) and the then Chinese president. Would you be able to forgive a nation for helping to destroy yours? 

The memorial has but these words enscripted as a welcome "Freedom is not free." And bloody hell are they right. This post has become incredibly somber and depressing so I shan't go on, but it is impossible to stay in this country even a few days without being affected by it. The people here are scared, but they also have to get on with their lives.

They will be the first to embrace you with open arms, they are friendly and helpful, and they also want you to know, without a shadow of a doubt, that you are welcome. You are so welcome, and they want the world to know, that South Korea is safe, please don't be put off visiting.

Apart from all this, I was slightly disappointed when reading up on all the "Top things to do" and lonely planet guides for Seoul, that shopping is the main draw. This city lives on consumerism to the highest lever, and as a backpacker, shopping just doesn't appeal to me. So my days here have been meticulously planned to get the most out of them, and here I sit, about to leave yet again.

My favourite day? Saturday. My day trip to the DMZ. The Demilitarised Zone is the buffer I spoke of earlier, between North and South, with no military presence within it at all. I descended one of the tunnels excavated by the North Koreans and came within 170 feet of the border. I peered through binoculars at propaganda villages set up by the North Koreans that frankly aren't fooling anyone and I walked along freedom bridge, where POWs were exchanged in 1953, after their 3 year long war.

It's been turned into a tourist frienzy, and our guide even joked that South Korea was making a fortune on the tunnels the North Koreans took years to build and never completed. The world would surely be a different place if they had succeeded, but it isn't dwelt on much. The entire experience was bizarre, but eye opening and I would reccommend it to anyone, whether you enjoy history or not.

This is the part where I leave an appreciative mention to Danny, Jim and Amit, who not only treated this budget backpacker to a lovely Korean BBQ lunch, but allowed me a days worth of conversation after several days without! We were even accosted in the street by a Korean gentleman who had many a tale to tell! There's a picture out there somewhere with the two of us in it, I don't mind if I never see it again! Having been in and out of jail multiple times in over 20 years for protesting the last government (that was won through a coup-de-ta,) at 81 years of age, he's developed and created a new alphabet for universal and worldwide use, including only 22 letters. I'm afraid I can't tell you much more than that as I swiftly made my exit after a request for a kiss. I did however get a free ice lemonade from him so I guess I did not too badly that day!

And thus my days in South Korea came to an end! I do wish I'd spent more time here, and in the countryside rather than yet another city, but that is my lesson learned, I can always come back! And I'm certainly not complaining that Tropical Storm George did not follow me here. I got sunburn! And I enjoyed some sunshine and vitamin D, so thank you Seoul, for that.

My recommendation? Please visit this country, but make sure you visit all it has to offer.

My days in SK:

Seoul is nestled between four mountains, and has one directly in the centre. The one in the background is the Northernmost, and is home to the ancient city walls.

The Imperial Palace is around 800 years old, is bigger than the Forbidden City in Beijing, and has oh so many stories within its walls. This was the terrace for hosting garden and summer parties, with boating and fishing in the lake around it.

The government of Seoul spent 384 million dollars tearing down highways and cement roads in bringing daylight to this stream. It runs through the city centre and is a hotspot in the summer for Seoulites dipping their toes in the cool waters.

While financially "reunification" would bring the South Korean economy to a standstill, the people here still hope and pray for it. They have been kept apart too long.

Dorasan train station is the northernmost station in South Korea. It was built with the money from 120,000 Korean donors in the hopes of reunification. The lines were reconnected in 2008 when relations between the two countries were better, and a cargo train ran from here to Pyeongyang. However, now that tensions have risen again, this station lies empty and unused, despite the fact that a train could easily run from here to Moscow in only 11 days. A 6 week shorter trip than a cargo ship takes at the moment. 

The hope isn't to travel to North Korea, but rather just to be allowed to pass through. A link like this to China and beyond would prove incredibly beneficial to the South Koreans. I could even get from Seoul to Glasgow by train! Imagine the entirety of two continents connected by rail? Maybe some day!

The busiest market in Seoul, Namdaemum, is a sight to see. I know I said I didn't want to shop, but just wandering in this endless maze is an experience not to be missed!

The National War Memorial of Korea is beautifully set back from a busy main thoroughfare. Surrounded by serene gardens and ponds and fountains, it is a great way to relax in the sunshine. Outside there's an array of military hardware, including tanks, helicopters, missiles and USAF bombers. Whilst inside it is harrowing (the truth of war often is,) the outside is peaceful and respectful.

The most poignant thing I have either heard or seen on my trip thus far. When NK invaded the South, it took mere days for over 35 different countries in the world to come to their aid. From the U.S., to Norway, to Uganda; countries sent money, food, weapons and soldiers in the fight for peace. If it could be done then, it can be done now, every nation has a duty to help others torn from their peaceful lives, even if the situation in Europe is entirely different, people still need help. The South Koreans will forever be grateful for those who answered the call, and so, I feel, would others.

So it's another chapter over. This sees the end of my solo wanderings (for now.) I spend a night in Hong Kong, in The Hotel Indigo (best decision I ever made) thanks to my staff discount (I MISS YOU GUYS) and then meet up with my group.

A night to regroup, with a double bed, my own bathroom and a room all to myself. I can barely contain my excitement! My hostels have been great so far, if - at times - a little quiet, but I can't complain.

It was a 4am start this morning and it'll be a long bloomin day of travelling including an airline I've never heard of, who very nearly didn't check me in because they believe I'm breaking immigration laws. Because I have a visa for China in my passport but no international ticket to enter China, I'm breaking a law? But I have an address in Hong Kong, and surely people stay in Hong Kong all the time before moving onto mainland China? I don't know what I expected from a £40 ticket, but if I get arrested on the other side, it was lovely knowing you all!

Another country ticked off the list, another one just waiting to be explored (if I get that far.)

This backpacker is off for her flight!

S x