Whilst we arrive in a capital, it's so vastly different from Vietnam that we're not really sure what to make of it. It isn't bustling, it's not lit up and it's certainly not loud. The drivers are courteous and not a single horn is sounded. There are barely any streetlights and you can see thousands of stars glittering above. But more than that, it's chilled, peaceful. Something Vietnam will never be.
We only spend one night and one morning in the capital, hiring a tuk-tuk to take us around the city's main sights and temples. We board a bus at around noon that takes us through beautiful countryside and stunning scenery four hours west to Vang Vieng.
Once a tiny town in the middle of nowhere, Vang Vieng has blossomed from tourism. It's the half-way stop between Vientiane and the old capital Luang Prabang, and the industry in Laos has made full use of it. Nearly all travellers and tourists stop in the town to partake in adventure sports and quirky activities. You can choose from hot air ballooning, kayaking, mountain biking, quad biking, cliff diving, absailing and much much more. The most famous of course, is tubing.
Basically, you sit in the rubber ring from the inside of a tractor tyre and float down the Nam Song river. My group and I walk into the countryside and situate ourselves on such a tube, instead however, we go caving. The only way in, is by sitting your ass in a donut and floating in through the tiny mouth of the cave. Ropes have been anchored so you can pull yourself through the darkness and our guide tells us spooky stories and the history of the area. It's way more fun than I was expecting.
We're treated to a BBQ lunch as others cave after us and some fly past on ziplines above our heads. Later that day we clamber into two-man kayaks and make our way down the river. This is the more popular route for tubers. There are bars situated on both sides of the river and you are brought in by "waiters" who throw plastic bottles on rope out to you on the middle of the river. All bars have beer-pong tables, basketball hoops, table tennis and all myriad of fun things to do. Some even have slides for you to launch yourself - in your donut- back into the river. We pull our kayaks in to one such bar and play some pong, drink some beers and soak in the fantastic weather before kayaking the rest of the ten kilometres back to the hotel.
Vang Vieng is situated in the middle of a mountain range and is easily the most stunning place we've stayed. Sunsets, sunrises and generally all day, the views are magical. Laos, you're winning.
We have dinner by the river two nights in a row and leave the town behind the next morning. We only have 150km to drive to Luang Prabang but because of the mountains, it takes over 7 hours to get there. We stop at two separate "service stations" that are atop two of the highest peaks and soak in the panoramic views over the country. You definitely won't appreciate Carlisle services after you see these pictures.
Luang Prabang is the old capital, recently given UNESCO World Heritage Status, and is situated nearer the Thai border so that the King could be easily reached in times of trouble. Once again, it doesn't feel like a city. There are no streetlights and barely a traffic light to be seen. Still drivers are courteous and patient, and the people are so friendly.
The day after we arrive here we speed out into the countryside once more for a very special reason. The elephant park is around an hour from the city and we spend the morning feeding, riding and bathing these special animals. They are calm, happy to be around people, carefree and so so happy when they are in the river. The 14 elephants at this particular park have been rescued from families who have worked them their whole lives. Now, they spend their days eating and splashing around in the river. It's a hard life. There are two babies, at two and five years old, and the rest are all adults who all let us feed them, climb onto them and ride them down to the river. They play about in the murky waters of the Mekong with us on their backs, sitting happily in the cool water on a hot November day.
We sadly leave the elephants behind in the afternoon and instead head to Luang Prabang's waterfall park. Kuang Si waterfall is the highest in the area, with three tiers leading to a fifty metre drop into spectacular azure pools that then flow downstream. The pools are cool due to the shade from the surrounding jungle, but spectacular to swim in. I can safely say I've never sat under a waterfall before. Another thing ticked off the list.
Sadly our time in Laos comes to an end. We spend our last two days cruising down the Mekong River towards Thailand. We spend nine hours the first day, reading, playing games, catching up on sleep and even writing a blog post or two. We stop off at a home stay over night where we are treated to a home cooked meal and clean beds in the middle of the jungle. Ten hours again the next day takes us to the border where we leave this stunning country behind. On entering back into Thailand it's another stamp in my passport, and the freedom to stay for another thirty days. Plenty of time to explore paradise!
Instead of revamping the capital's airport runway, the Americans used the money to build the "Peace Gate." It has never been completed, and is only slightly smaller than the Arc de Triumph in Paree. You can climb the seven stories to the top for a panoramic view of Vientiane.
Looking suave in helmets and head torches for our caving experience.
We stopped on the top of a mountain range at a service station. The toilets had no outward facing walls. Basically the best view you've ever had whilst peeing.
There are many elephant rescue centres in both Laos and Thailand. The one we visited had two babies and twelve adults, ranging from two years old to fifty seven. These elephants have spent their lives working in forests and hauling large loads. Now they eat for 20 hours and bath in the Mekong River up to three times a day.
Kuang Si waterfall with its crystal clear waters and ice cold swimming lagoon. Perfect on a thirty degree November afternoon.
There are markets in every city in every country, and they all sell the same stuff, but in Laos they are considerably cheaper and a much better experience for shopping. No one shouts at you, shoves items in your face or quotes you a price six times more than it should be. Ah, Laos, you are so chilled.
We sailed along the Mekong river, which snakes along the border of Thailand and Laos, in a slow boat for two days. Owned privately, we were cooked for and kept.
On the middle night of our voyage we stopped off in a village in the middle of the jungle. By taking us there, our tour gives back to a community in need of extra income. We pay for food and board and we also visit a school with seventy enrolled children to give simple gifts. Two guys in my group - Max on the left and Hendrik in the right took them two soccer balls. And then got beaten!
Fun facts:
- Not a single car horn will be sounded. Ever. In Asia this is alien. Drivers will wave you across at crossroads and you will feel like a queen.
- Laos is still very conservative so if visiting make sure you have enough clothes that cover both your legs and shoulders for the duration of your stay. Vests and shorts are not liked here.
- The government allowed China to start a deforestation project, but in 2012 they put an end to it. They have the largest condensed area of jungle and wanted to keep it that way. Go Laos!
I loved Vietnam, I even loved Cambodia, they are all special in their own ways, but there was something about Laos that captured my heart. It's stunning in every way, from scenery to people and from the peace to the price. Laos is definitely the cheapest of these four countries and I can assure you, you won't regret coming here. I feel sorry for the friends who have skipped this beautiful place and concentrated on the other three. You missed out guys!
Anyways, it's time for this backpacker to log out. It's been a long three weeks and I'm looking forward to chilling out in Thailand's second biggest city. Chang Mai, let's be having you!
S x
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