Chengdu, Xi'an & Shaolin

Chengdu is the capital of Sichuan Province and the experiences just kept rolling.

We truck ourselves and all our stuff off our 25 hour night train and onto the packed Chengdu metro. It becomes clear then - and throughout our stay in Chengdu and Xi'an - that people here have never seen so many westerners, or a ginger in their lives. 

It's funny to notice the differences. They see a blonde and go "wow, amazing," but they see a ginger and go "what the fuck is that?!" It's clear they just don't understand. They're trying to work out whether I'm like the Koreans and have dyed my hair a crazy colour, or if it's real, and if it is real then 'oh my god that's unbelievable.'

So while you sort of get used to being a circus act, walking into a waiting room in Chengdu station and having around 600 people turn and stare, is something you find bizzarre to say the least.

Chengdu as a city isn't a great wonder to behold. It's another concrete jungle with apartment blocks being thrown up left right and centre, but we are only here for two nights before moving on again and we thoroughly enjoy our time.

Our first night we experience Sichuan Hot Pot. Where the oil (already seasoned and spiced) is brought to the table and put on the gas to cook. The outer ring is spicy while the inside isn't, and you can choose which to cook your food in. Our guide orders around 8 different things and they are brought, already sliced, and we slide them into our desired oil. The off putting thing about this meal is the crazy amount of oil. Not only is it cooked in it, you also have sesame oil in your own bowl to take the spice out of your food before you eat it. Let's just say it was a messy experience and I think the whole group agreed that it wasn't the best meal we'd ever had. But hey, it was something new!

Day 2. Where do I even begin to describe day 2 in Chengdu? The city is famous for a few things, but the most obvious, and the most beloved is that amazing black and white bear we as people just can't seem to get enough of. It was Panda time! One of the most exciting activities on the tour, I can safely say I probably annoyed my group by the sheer amount of times I said "PANDA, PANDA," in an excited chant on our way to the Panda Park. 

The Chengdu Panda Breeding Centre has researched the Giant Panda for over 30 years and thinks it's found the most sustainable way to save one of the oldest species on the planet. Did you know the average species life time is 5 million years, and that the Giant Panda is already at 8 million?

They are cared for, nurtured, watched closely, paired with hopeful mates, and in times when that isn't successful, artificially inseminated. The park now has just under 100 pandas living in it's expansive grounds from 2 weeks old to 20 years old.

I want one.

No, seriously. Kids ask their parents for ponies all the time. I want a panda. They're so cute!! However, another fun fact, they aren't soft and cuddly like you would expect. Panda fur is actually quite coarse. Bit of a disappointment, but still want one. And yes, while they didn't do anything other than eat bamboo at a rate you wouldn't believe, and sleep hanging from a tree, we all still had a wonderful day!

In the afternoon of panda day, half of our group took a trip to Leshan, an ancient city over two hours drive from Chengdu. Leshan's claim to fame is that it has the largest Buddha in the world, carved into the rock face overlooking the river. Another sight to behold. The pictures don't do this 23-story structure justice. It's almost like the two kings in Lord of the Rings if you can excuse me geeking out for a moment.

Our bus drops us off on the road at the head of the Buddha and our party descends single file down a staircase carved from the rock. It's slow going, but it gives you the best view of the Buddha itself. The bottom is literally selfie central but among all us tourists (mostly Chinese) there are two dozen Tibetan monks going through their praying ritual on their knees between the giant stone feet of the 1200 year old Buddha.

The only thing about descending 47 flights of stairs is that you have to climb back up!

We party the night away in the Jellyfish nightclub in Chengdu and pay for it the next day. So our final day is relaxed and hangover ridden. I drew the short straw and am sick all day, not able to keep anything down including water, so I spend most of my day lying on the sofa in my hostel while my group lunched and walked around the city centre.

At 9pm we board another night train - only 15 hours this time - and speed off North West again. Next destination Xi'an!

A more historic city, we don't see much of Xi'an only taking part in a 13km bike ride around the Ming Dynasty city walls. The most complete ancient city walls in China. We are based here for a sole reason - The Terracotta Warriors (below.)

The next day we try our hand at a public coach and spend 6 hours driving into the countryside towards Dengfeng, the home of the Shaolin temple and the ancient home of Kung Fu.

We are treated to a show and Kung Fu lesson at a local school, where our money goes directly to their studies and training. The kids are aged between 7 and 16, and are more talented than you would believe. Hand stands on two fingers, breaking cement blocks with one hand, and much more. Despite being bitten alive by mosquitos (I added 8 more fresh bites to my collection) we had a great night in the rural countryside. The next day we go to Shaolin Temple, trek up to Dharma Cave (reminds you of something out of Lost) and watch a professional Kung Fu show, even better than the day before.

Despite an exhausting day we head to Zhengzhou, 2 hours from Shaolin, and board our third night train. The hardest one so far. We board at 10.15pm and disembark in Beijing at 6.10am. Barely half the group have had any sleep and we arrived bleary eyed at our hostel so early we can't check in.

2 years later I am back in Beijing, the beating heart of this country, and all I can think about is crawling into my bed later. 

With some of my group at the Sichuan Hot Pot dinner. Much spice, so much oil and plenty of free watery orange juice for everyone!

One of our group thought we were having a group photo taken beside some giant blobs. It wasn't until we were walking away that she realised they were pandas.

My absolute favourite experience so far. I WANT ONE.

These little guys are around 1/2 months old. I WANT ONE.

The biggest Buddha in the world at over 70 metres, carved out of the rock face on the river at Yeshan.

The night before the day I was sick as a dog. Definitely wasn't self inflicted. Definitely wasn't more than a bottle of vodka involved. Team.

The first emperor of all of China, the Qin Dynasty (pronounced 'Chin' - hence China) unified six countries to create this one big one. He started building his tomb at the age of 13, the biggest in the world at 52 square kilometres and 200 metres deep. He decided he needed 7000+ terracotta warriors to protect him in the afterlife. His body has never been exhumed as legend says his body is surrounded by rivers of mercury. Good ruse if it's a lie. 2000 years ago the guy was responsible for the creation of the country we know as China, and for building 5-lane highways lined with trees that are still in use today. 2000 years ago! Take that Romans!

The kids at this school are either orphans or come from some of the poorest families in the region. Poverty here is more obvious than anywhere we have previously been, but statistically 500 million people in China have lifted themselves out of dire poverty since 2006. 9 years has changed this country irrevocably. This school relies solely on donations, so pictures and videos of westerners are welcomed to make them seem more legitimate. 2 of the students graduate in June, when 1 wants to join the army, and 1 is heading to the movies.

On our final day we visit Shaolin Temple, and hike up one of the neighbouring mountains to Dharma Cave where Dharma himself meditated for 9 years. The temple was originally Taoist until the Indian monk changed it to Buddhism. The temple has been destroyed more than 15 times in it's past, but still stands today. This statue is atop the mountain that took us around 45 minutes to climb. 

This backpacker is exhausted, so I'm skipping this morning's activity - The Temple of Heaven (as I've already done it) - to find a sofa to curl up on until I can check into my room.

S x

Hong Kong & The Start Of my Tour

Much like Tokyo, I fell in love with Hong Kong in a matter of hours; the buzz and the lights. Yeah, it's yet another city, but it's hard not to be enraptured by the life of this place.

I arrive first thing in the morning, and by the time I've battled my way through immigration, declared nothing at customs, waited over an hour for my bag to arrive on the conveyer belt (yes, I was beginning to panic,) grabbed a western lunch, converted my money, caught a train and arrived at my hotel, it's already the middle of the afternoon!

The taxi ride from the airport, while quiet, is eye-opening. We pass the port first, the fourth largest in the world, and being from little populated Scotland, I've seen nothing like it before! It seems to go on for miles before we wind our way through busy streets bustling with people, double-parked cars and markets galore. My taxi door is opened for me, my bag makes it to the lobby before I do, I'm greeted by name, checked in quickly, given a voucher for a free drink in the rooftop bar and most importantly, filled in on my upgrade. Sure, it's an "access" room, normally for someone in a wheelchair, but I'm assured it's better than I paid for. I'm situated on the top floor, escorted up by the bellhop, and invited in. Now, let me just say here, that all through my life it's been Travellodge and Holiday Inn Expresses. I have never been in a hotel room like this. King size bed, panoramic windows, a waterfall shower, jet bathtub, and a mini bar that must cost £100 to stock.

I shower and settle myself in, making full use of the button beside my bed that controls the blackout curtains and blinds. I barely move. I sew a couple of badges onto my bag (my only souvenirs,) chill out to some music and finally take a nap. It's the downtime I was so desperately looking forward to, and it didn't disappoint.

I treat myself to dinner in the hotel restaurant, that cost 3 times as much as lunch before heading out into the Hong Kong night. 8pm and 30 degrees Celsius. I do my best not to melt. My hotel was situated in Hong Kong Island, and it's only a 10 minute walk until I'm at the Star Ferry Pier. The sun has set and the "show" is on. I cross over to the opposite side from Victoria Harbour and gaze in wonder at the spectacle before me.

It's 30 degrees and around 80% humidity, even at 9pm at night so I don't last long before heading back to my hotel room. Honestly, I think I had the best sleep I could imagine to help me kick off the rest of my time in China. The biggest advice I can give you if you're backpacking for a lengthy period of time, is to treat yourself. One night in the Indigo in Hong Kong cost me £60 including breakfast (which is 10x more than a night in a hostel,) but a night to yourself is priceless. I am already looking forward to my dirt cheap 4 star hotel in Bangkok at the end of this tour and the beginning of the next.

I spent the first week of my journey constantly keeping tabs of what I was spending, worried that it'd be too much, but at the same time wanting to know for future how much money would last me a certain amount of time.

I met my group early Wednesday morning and through bleary eyes we set off on our first adventure together. 20 complete strangers, couples, teenagers, solo backpackers and some honeymooners thrown together. And it's been great so far, we've all clicked, and we've all mingled with each other. It's great that there's a good number of us, because it means we won't be spending all day every day with the same people.

The Peak. We travel up to the highest point in Hong Kong, in Kowloom, opposite Hong Kong Island, and soak in the early morning views. On one side, the sprawling cityscape of Hong Kong, on the other the endless ocean and many islands that make up greater Hong Kong. You can judge the size of this city just by the vast number of cargo ships sailing to and from the harbour.

10 hours travelling and dinner. We leave Hong Kong for Shenzen and cross the border into China through the train station before catching a bullet train to Guilin. We then board a tiny Chinese size bus to Yangshuo and arrive to moonlit mountains and buzzing markets.

On day two in Yangshuo we take a bike ride through the town and into the country, along the river and into the mountains. While cycling on a busy Chinese road was an experience, none of us were harmed and we all thoroughly enjoyed our day. We then boarded bamboo rafts (above) and floated down the river, steered expertly by gondola-style drivers. It was hard work! While soaking in the scenery, the "drivers" splash us and even stop for a beer. After a long-awaited shower and a group dinner, a group of us head for a massage and hot cupping. Releasing the tension from weeks of carting round a backpack almost as big as myself, my shoulders felt brand new again!

Day 3, we tackle the Moon hill, a special place in Yangshuo, aptly named as there is a crescent missing from the landscape. At only 450 feet up, it's not the highest hill you'll ever climb, but it's worth it for the view and the breeze at the top! We continue this day with mud baths and hotsprings to once again rid ourselves of the fatigue and sticky sweatiness. 

We finish this day by experiencing Commorant fishing (the HSBC advert in the UK,) where the fisherman uses birds to catch his prey rather than a net. It's amazing to watch these birds dive into the deep river and return with a fish caught in it's beak. An elastic band around it's throat stops it from swallowing the fish and it delivers it to the feet of the fisherman. A beautiful boat trip under the moonlight and dominant lit-up mountains!

On our final day in Yansghuo we get out of bed for an early morning kayak down the Yangtze. While I got sunstroke and purple legs, we all enjoyed it. It was hard work, but the scenery was worth it. We've bonded so much in such a short period of time just from the sheer magnitude of things we've done together. I've never kayaked before, but I made it to the end!

We finish this day with a special village tour to the home of one of our guides. An eye-opening experience of both poverty and politics in the country, where we are treated to homemade tea, dinner and spectacular views.

Unfortunately our time in Yangshuo comes to an end. We board a 25 hour night train from Guilin to Chengdu, the capital city of Sichuan province. We're half way into it when we discover we could have done the same journey on a bullet train for 8 hours! It's all part of the Chinese experience however, and we spend hours talking, laughing, playing games and sleeping. The sleeping definitely helps. And while I've never been in a smaller bunk, with as little space, I am rocked to sleep under the aircon. It's not glamorous in the slightest, Chinese vendors pass up and down every ten minutes trying to sell their wares, the music and the lights come blaring on at 7am sharp and the toilets are something else entirely. While in china you have to get used to squat toilets, it's either that or you don't go at all. A squat toilet on a train is a whole other kettle of fish. These aren't steady, smooth trains, and squat toilets are hard enough as it is. Let's just say your skill should be much improved by the end of the 25 hours. And honestly, they were clean and not all that bad. I've been in worse in high-tech stations and airports.

I've arrived in Chengdu, and tomorrow I'm heading to the Panda Research Centre. (SO EXCITED,) so it's an early night in this substantially cooler city. There's no suffocating humidity here and I'm so thankful to be out of it even if just for the night.

This backpacker is heading to bed. Gotta get ready to smuggle a panda out tomorrow.

S x

Seoul

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving."

Albert Einstein.

I find my days here have been mixed. I feel like I haven't seen or experienced all that South Korea has to offer, but also seen and heard more than I could wrap my brain around. This country is not big, it might have a huge population (running theme these days) but it's area is relatively small, and I feel like more time would have been better served outside it's bustling capital.

Seoul - 10.1 million people, with a history of just under 3000 years and rife with war, death and turmoil. 

I was sat on the train from the airport, taking in everything around me, when the news flashed up on one of the TV screens (subtitled in English.) Top story, flashing across, that the Hyundai Motor workers were going on strike. Top of the bulletin, much like the migrant crisis or the new Labour leader at home. And then, some ten minutes later, a small segment only containing the words "NK 'likely' to launch another missile strike."

Yeah, we hear bits and pieces at home like this, but NK is less than 60km from Seoul. It's capital Pyeongyang, only 3.5 hours by train. These are their neighbours and this is normal. They live under constant threat from a regime in a country that should rightly be part of theirs. Everywhere you go, people talk about their shared history, about their stake in it all and about how much they want peace.

North and South Korea have been at war for 70 years. 70. It has never been declared over, and as an outsider looking in, it's clear it won't ever be in the near future. A ceasefire was declared in 1953, and a buffer zone created to keep the two sides apart. But is it enough?

I visited the National War Memorial of Korea on my last day in Seoul, a huge museum dedicated to both Korea's history and mainly the Korean War. It was busy, especially for a beautiful afternoon, but it seemed to me like no one was that affected. I found the whole thing harrowing and ridiculously upsetting. That brother should turn on brother under the direction of one dictator, who enlisted the help of Stalin (are we surprised) and the then Chinese president. Would you be able to forgive a nation for helping to destroy yours? 

The memorial has but these words enscripted as a welcome "Freedom is not free." And bloody hell are they right. This post has become incredibly somber and depressing so I shan't go on, but it is impossible to stay in this country even a few days without being affected by it. The people here are scared, but they also have to get on with their lives.

They will be the first to embrace you with open arms, they are friendly and helpful, and they also want you to know, without a shadow of a doubt, that you are welcome. You are so welcome, and they want the world to know, that South Korea is safe, please don't be put off visiting.

Apart from all this, I was slightly disappointed when reading up on all the "Top things to do" and lonely planet guides for Seoul, that shopping is the main draw. This city lives on consumerism to the highest lever, and as a backpacker, shopping just doesn't appeal to me. So my days here have been meticulously planned to get the most out of them, and here I sit, about to leave yet again.

My favourite day? Saturday. My day trip to the DMZ. The Demilitarised Zone is the buffer I spoke of earlier, between North and South, with no military presence within it at all. I descended one of the tunnels excavated by the North Koreans and came within 170 feet of the border. I peered through binoculars at propaganda villages set up by the North Koreans that frankly aren't fooling anyone and I walked along freedom bridge, where POWs were exchanged in 1953, after their 3 year long war.

It's been turned into a tourist frienzy, and our guide even joked that South Korea was making a fortune on the tunnels the North Koreans took years to build and never completed. The world would surely be a different place if they had succeeded, but it isn't dwelt on much. The entire experience was bizarre, but eye opening and I would reccommend it to anyone, whether you enjoy history or not.

This is the part where I leave an appreciative mention to Danny, Jim and Amit, who not only treated this budget backpacker to a lovely Korean BBQ lunch, but allowed me a days worth of conversation after several days without! We were even accosted in the street by a Korean gentleman who had many a tale to tell! There's a picture out there somewhere with the two of us in it, I don't mind if I never see it again! Having been in and out of jail multiple times in over 20 years for protesting the last government (that was won through a coup-de-ta,) at 81 years of age, he's developed and created a new alphabet for universal and worldwide use, including only 22 letters. I'm afraid I can't tell you much more than that as I swiftly made my exit after a request for a kiss. I did however get a free ice lemonade from him so I guess I did not too badly that day!

And thus my days in South Korea came to an end! I do wish I'd spent more time here, and in the countryside rather than yet another city, but that is my lesson learned, I can always come back! And I'm certainly not complaining that Tropical Storm George did not follow me here. I got sunburn! And I enjoyed some sunshine and vitamin D, so thank you Seoul, for that.

My recommendation? Please visit this country, but make sure you visit all it has to offer.

My days in SK:

Seoul is nestled between four mountains, and has one directly in the centre. The one in the background is the Northernmost, and is home to the ancient city walls.

The Imperial Palace is around 800 years old, is bigger than the Forbidden City in Beijing, and has oh so many stories within its walls. This was the terrace for hosting garden and summer parties, with boating and fishing in the lake around it.

The government of Seoul spent 384 million dollars tearing down highways and cement roads in bringing daylight to this stream. It runs through the city centre and is a hotspot in the summer for Seoulites dipping their toes in the cool waters.

While financially "reunification" would bring the South Korean economy to a standstill, the people here still hope and pray for it. They have been kept apart too long.

Dorasan train station is the northernmost station in South Korea. It was built with the money from 120,000 Korean donors in the hopes of reunification. The lines were reconnected in 2008 when relations between the two countries were better, and a cargo train ran from here to Pyeongyang. However, now that tensions have risen again, this station lies empty and unused, despite the fact that a train could easily run from here to Moscow in only 11 days. A 6 week shorter trip than a cargo ship takes at the moment. 

The hope isn't to travel to North Korea, but rather just to be allowed to pass through. A link like this to China and beyond would prove incredibly beneficial to the South Koreans. I could even get from Seoul to Glasgow by train! Imagine the entirety of two continents connected by rail? Maybe some day!

The busiest market in Seoul, Namdaemum, is a sight to see. I know I said I didn't want to shop, but just wandering in this endless maze is an experience not to be missed!

The National War Memorial of Korea is beautifully set back from a busy main thoroughfare. Surrounded by serene gardens and ponds and fountains, it is a great way to relax in the sunshine. Outside there's an array of military hardware, including tanks, helicopters, missiles and USAF bombers. Whilst inside it is harrowing (the truth of war often is,) the outside is peaceful and respectful.

The most poignant thing I have either heard or seen on my trip thus far. When NK invaded the South, it took mere days for over 35 different countries in the world to come to their aid. From the U.S., to Norway, to Uganda; countries sent money, food, weapons and soldiers in the fight for peace. If it could be done then, it can be done now, every nation has a duty to help others torn from their peaceful lives, even if the situation in Europe is entirely different, people still need help. The South Koreans will forever be grateful for those who answered the call, and so, I feel, would others.

So it's another chapter over. This sees the end of my solo wanderings (for now.) I spend a night in Hong Kong, in The Hotel Indigo (best decision I ever made) thanks to my staff discount (I MISS YOU GUYS) and then meet up with my group.

A night to regroup, with a double bed, my own bathroom and a room all to myself. I can barely contain my excitement! My hostels have been great so far, if - at times - a little quiet, but I can't complain.

It was a 4am start this morning and it'll be a long bloomin day of travelling including an airline I've never heard of, who very nearly didn't check me in because they believe I'm breaking immigration laws. Because I have a visa for China in my passport but no international ticket to enter China, I'm breaking a law? But I have an address in Hong Kong, and surely people stay in Hong Kong all the time before moving onto mainland China? I don't know what I expected from a £40 ticket, but if I get arrested on the other side, it was lovely knowing you all!

Another country ticked off the list, another one just waiting to be explored (if I get that far.)

This backpacker is off for her flight!

S x

Kyoto & Osaka

"Never fear quarrels, but seek hazardous adventures." 

- Alexandre Dumas, The Three Musketeers

Where Tokyo was big and bright and busy and buzzing, Kyoto is it's shyer counterpart. The shops here close long before 10pm, the subway only has eleven lines - yes only - and it's population is only 1.3 million, a tenth of that of Tokyo.

It's a strange transition if I'm honest. For my first 24 hours in Kyoto I wasn't sure I even liked it, but the more I explored and the more wonders I saw, the more in love with it I fell. It has temples and shrines that predate anything still standing in the UK.  

I visited Fushimi Shrine on my first day. 5000 red gates that lead up a mountain in the South-east of the city. I took my time and enjoyed the atmosphere, despite getting soaked. Unfortunately there wasn't much to see as the weather wasn't great, but there a shrine sits, candles burning all the time, and people praying on bended knee; at the top of a mountain overlooking their precious city. That alone is a sight to see.

I filled my days here with temples, shrines, walks, history and food. My only words of advice would be, you don't need to spend more than 2 days here. I chose 4 nights and 4 days, and I struggled to fill them. Unless of course, unlike me you have no tattoos, then you could easily spend a day at a hot spring resort - fairly cheaply - relaxing and ridding yourself of the exhaustion that I find comes with backpacking.

9am to 9/10/11pm every day non-stop is exactly that, exhausting. It's so worth it, but at the same time I can't wait for a chill day. 

I spent my 3rd day here in Osaka, a much larger city around 40km away. I was told in advance that 1 day was plenty, so I took a day trip rather than staying the night. Osaka was both a hit and a miss. I won't pretend that my adventure has been completely plain sailing. It's been full of silly mistakes, stupid stress and way too many moments of doubt, but I guess that's what it's all about.

I decided to visit Shitennoji Temple (aptly named) and spent over 500¥ on a return subway ticket to a temple that was covered in scaffolding and empty of people. Not a great start. I opted not to pay the 300¥ entrance fee and walked around the free outside area before sitting a while and reevaluating the rest of my day. I felt stupid because it hadn't been easy to find, Japanese maps and street signs are clear as mud sometimes, and I'd wasted valuable money. 

Thankfully the rest of my day was superb. I visited Osaka Castle, impressive just to look at, which has been converted into a museum with eight floors, and an observatory on the top floor. This day, unfortunately, a tropical storm had moved in over this south western tip of the country and again, visibility was poor. I'm not exaggerating when I say I've never seen rain like it. Ew. You're either soaked with sweat, or soaked with rain. It's a lovely combination, I tell you.

I had a lovely noodle soup lunch here before setting off for the other side of the city. I was on my way to the docks on the wettest day possible but oh well, my day got infinitely better. Osaka is home to one of the largest aquariums in the world and I was so excited! The last time I visited an aquarium I was around 5 years old, so I was not disappointed by this trip. It cost me four times more than anything else I'd paid to do since arriving in Japan, but boy was in worth it.

Their exhibit is based on the Ring of Fire in the Pacific Basin, and the route takes you around, from the Antartic, to the Tasmin Sea to the reefs off Costa Rica to Monteray Bay (not in that order), exhibiting all the natural sea life from each of these places. IT'S MASSIVE at around a 1.6km walk in total and with 15 large tanks. The central tank, representing the Pacific Ocean itself, is walked around and around from the top floor to the bottom and you can take in all the creatures at the different depths they reside. It's so fascinating. Oh, and did I mention they have Whale Sharks? Over 4 feet longer than a great white they were certainly a presence that's for sure.

At the docks, there was also The Diamond Princess cruise ship, sitting docked for the night. As I left the aquarium around 7 o'clock, it was dark and everything was alight. The passengers were being treated to dockside entertainment from high school bands and dancers. And honestly, they didn't sound like high school bands. I stood for around 45 minutes, huddled under my umbrella, soaking up the atmosphere. Pun intended. Tropical Storm George was in full force by this point.

I think I learned from this day, that it's not all about "go, go go." I really enjoyed having fun and relaxing, maybe even more than I had trekking around all those temples! It's important to look after yourself, especially on the prospect of a very long, sometimes lonely trip. So if that means you spend two days in Osaka at the aquarium and then at Universal Studios (also one of the biggest) then so be it. I would have, I just didn't have enough time ;)

My four days in Kyoto and Osaka: 

The Fushimi Shrine - a picture you've no doubt seen before, but I TOOK THIS ONE :)

Kyoto Castle - complete with real - and original - nightingale floor that sings as you walk across it. It was an art in ancient Japan to learn how to cross a nightingale floor without it even whispering. Sadly I couldn't do it. No pictures are allowed inside structures like this as it can damage the wood, the carvings and the paper thin paintings. Amazing to experience though.

Toji Temple - the tallest pagoda in Japan. A zen temple, dedicated to Buddhism.

The Golden Pavilion in the north of the city is over 700 years old, and was the retirement villa of the Shogun of the time (leader of ancient Tokyo - Edo.)

Osaka castle, rebuilt after a lightning strike in 1650, but modeled after the original, is surrounded by a moat and sits 60 feet above the ground around it.

Me and the Whale Shark I made friends with. The one in the gift shop was much cuter, nearly bought one til' I remembered I'd have to sacrifice something else in my backpack - like my clothes. 

Osaka bayside. The Diamond Princess docked alongside the tallest Ferris wheel in Asia. I had a wonderful evening of free entertainment on the dock while the passengers all cheered on from their balconies. And yes, there was a tropical storm, my phone camera just didn't know it!

Kyoto Station has over 40 rail tracks, not including 11 subway lines and 18 bus routes that stop and start here. It has eleven floors and hosts nearly 2 million people a day - both domestic and international. Navigating this place was a serious issue at times, but at night the staircase up to the shopping levels comes alive and everyone sits back to relax and enjoy it. Welcome to Kyoto indeed!

Daikakuji Temple. The oldest original structure in Kyoto. This building dates back 1200 years, and as it has never burned down or been destroyed, it has never had to be rebuilt. Every floor and walkway is a nightingale floor. I still couldn't master it. It's covered walkways also have low roofs so that no one could swing a sword or spear. Talk about defences! You can hear them coming, and you've stopped them battling on your front steps!

Bamboo! Lots and lots of it! This bamboo pathway and forest is around 30 mins on the train to the west of Kyoto, a 1.5km walk from Daikakuji Temple (above.)

Fun Facts:

1. Kyoto was never bombed during the war - supposedly because world leaders knew how many precious artifacts presided here. Maybe that isn't the case, but I'd like to think it played a part!
2. On a 30 minute bullet train from Kyoto to Osaka (40km,) there's not a single free space to be seen. They are both so spread out they encroach on each other. You either live in one, or the other. Just think of all that green space between Glasgow and Edinburgh, or Manchester and Liverpool. It's all city here.
3. The seat backs on JR (Japan Rail) trains move so you can sit going backwards or forwards, or make it into a four facing your friends - it's your choice!
4. In Kyoto and Tokyo it is the norm to stay on the left side of the escalator to allow people to pass you, but in Osaka you stand on the right. Don't get it wrong now!
5. 90% of subway stations are underground shopping malls or streets. Especially between the stations that join up. There is a whole underground city going on, made up of restaurants, cafes, stalls and shops!
6. It only costs 38p for an international stamp - come on Royal Mail, what's the deal?!
7. Japan is NOT expensive. Not when you come with British Pounds anyways, maybe other currencies see a bigger difference. An expensive pint of beer will set you back £2.50, and an all day subway ticket in Tokyo a fiver. That's not as bad as you thought, huh?  So don't listen to anyone that says "ooooh, Japan's a bit expensive is it not?" on an intake of breath. It's honestly not.
8. There is genuinely a vending machine every hundred yards. Whether it contains drinks, food, cigarettes or ice cream, you never have to go far for your next fix.
9. You can smoke inside, but outside you have to be in a designated smoking area. So no standing outside the train station door puffing away. Get into the smokers shelter!
10. There are no bins - anywhere. Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, nope. Everyone carries their rubbish with them until they get home, or until they are inside a public building. You will usually find one in a train or subway station! And despite this, there isn't a speck of litter anywhere.

So it's time to bid farewell to Japan and move on to South Korea. I've had a jam-packed 8 days full of wonder and laughter. From the neon lights to the tranquility of the zen gardens, this country is amazing. And there's so much more to see! I've barely covered half of Honshu (the main island,) so there's ample reason for me to return, and I'm fairly certain I will!

Sayonara for much longer this time. Time to learn a few words in the next language!

It's an airport limousine (bus) to Osaka and then a flight to Seoul for me, what are you up to today?

Out x

Sayonara!

“Go back?” he thought. “No good at all! Go sideways? Impossible! Go forward? Only thing to do! On we go!”

- Bilbo Baggins, The Hobbit

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

So this is technically the first of my official travel blogs! Even though I'm only sat in Heathrow airport - I have technically gone somewhere.

Greeted by a woman who was clearly having a bad day, I knew I'd arrived in London. Sorry, but you're not the friendliest city in the world guys! 

After the disappointment of a British Airways flight that was no more than a Ryanair plane with a different sticker on it's tail, I am excited to get on my way, only to find that my Virgin Atlantic flight isn't even run by Virgin. The guy at the check in desk (way more friendly this time) was adamant that Virgin don't fly to Tokyo. Well, here I am, going to Tokyo, you can imagine the sinking in my stomach. After many phone calls and discussions it's found that I need to head to the ANA desk - stands for All Nippon Airways - of course we've all heard of them! (Who?) So great, now I'm sat wondering what kind of metal tube I'm going to be transported to the other side of the world in.

I've only flown long haul once, but clearly that's enough to make anyone a snob. Emirates, I love you, ANA I have my dubious thoughts. But hey, I'm checked in, my phone is plugged in and charging and I only have 13 more hours until I'm in Tokyo.

Tokyo. I mean, what? The most populous metropolitan area in the world, followed closely by Seoul (going there in a week) and Shanghai (will be there in approx 4 weeks!) Close to 14 million people live in Tokyo, and then there will be me. Two backpacks on, sweating and looking undoubtedly lost. If I can get from the airport to my hostel via subway (that's mostly in Japanese characters) I'll then know I can do anything. If not, you'll find me crying in a not-so-quiet corner of the airport somewhere determined to come home. See, I clearly have high hopes for this trip.

My stomach has been fluttering - no, wrong word - buzzing, sickening me for days. Did I sleep last night? Don't think so. Will I sleep on my flight? Doubtful. I'm a mess of nerves, excitement and absolute wonder because I have no idea what I've let myself in for and I find it so hard to imagine myself somewhere so amazing.  China never really sunk in, and now I'm wondering if the 7 countries I visit in the coming 12 weeks will.

The shrines, the temples, the markets, the people. The beaches, the jungles, the world heritage sites, the somber reminders and the thrilling activities. How do you begin to explain the feeling that has been growing in intensity even over the last hour? How do I begin to imagine what these places will be like? Except the Great Wall, I don't have to imagine that one, been there, done that. 

So here I sit surrounded by Burberry, Gucci, Bvlgari, Mulberry, Dior and Ted Baker (is it so hard to fit in a WHSmith somewhere) eagerly anticipating the start of this mahoosive adventure.

Hopefully the first of many posts from many a Utopia, I bid you Sayonara and I'll pop in again soon!

**Sayonara - From Japanese: the utterance of sayonara, the wishing of farewell to someone. 

When You're No Longer The Recent Graduate Class

Remember it? The sweet relief of that last exam being over. The happiness of spending the days drinking with your course mates, planning trips and saving for summer.

Then came the move home, the bittersweet goodbyes and the sharp pain as life slapped you - hard - in the face. We were graduates, it was time to live in the real world.

Now, here we are, almost a full year later. Friends from all paths of life (uni, travelling, clydesiding and school) are going though that now. Their dissertation hand in photos and "last day of uni" pictures litter my timeline, in a happy, nostalgic kind of way. I'm proud of them, and happy for them.

But it brings with it the realisation that we're no longer the recently graduated class. And has anything changed? Ha, let the panic set in...

1. Friends are getting married/engaged or buying houses/pets with their boyfriends/girlfriends. This is not acceptable behaviour.
   
2. The "It is time to start repaying your student loan" letter has dropped through the letterbox. Nope, that one is being ignored.
   
3. The looks you receive when mentioning a spontaneous, week-night night out. As if I have a problem or something.
   
4. Learning to live with your parents again - ugh - or if you have moved out, the whole 'council tax' thing. Ha, great, extra bills.
   
5. The 'I'm going traveling' declaration. And then realising you should have been saving for at least a year and you can't just go right then. Damn.
   
6. The insistent surveys your uni wants you to fill in, telling them what you're doing with your invaluable degree and having to tell them you're a waitress/shop assistant/sales executive.
   
7. Your family members are getting increasingly concerned that you still don't know what you want to be when you grow up. Oh, wait, I'm running out of time.
   
8. Thinking you might need to go on that date just so your love life has some semblance of structure, as the rest of your life sure doesn't.
   
9. The difficulty in organising time to see uni friends who are now scattered across the UK. You have a full time job now, you can't just take four days off.
   
10. The heartbreaking moment you realise you can't hand over your student card in a shop or at the cinema and the crushing disappointment when you see how expensive 'adult' prices are.
    

2014: A Fond Farewell

The cover flips shut and there it sits, face down on the table. The book of 2014, my book of 2014.

2014 is over. How did that happen?

While it's been another year that has flown by, 2014 was long in the best way and for the first time I feel like I can honestly say, I've grown up. I can recognise it in myself, I've grown, and I've come out the other side a stronger person, and hopefully, a fuller person.

• I've officially graduated university. I have a degree, to go on with as I choose, and memories and friends that will stay with me forever.
• I've made mistakes, owned up to them and dealt with their consequences.
• I was wise enough to say "No. Letting him kiss me is not a good idea right now."
• I was brave enough to say, 'do you know what, I'm going to do with my future what I want to do, not what society expects.'
• I learned how to make time for friends, and know that no matter how far away they were, it didn't make them less important to me. I now have lifetime friends all over the country, from London to Liverpool to Manchester to Yorkshire. 
• I fell in love with sport as I volunteered at the event of a lifetime, and took a plunge into the unknown as I signed up for the next Commonwealth games in the Gold Coast.
• Girls, I went down another clothing size. Jeez. Skinny jeans? Come at me.
• I learned that it didn't matter how long you knew someone for, it was the quality of the friendship they brought you. Here's looking at you my handful of wonderful work pals and fellow clydesiders.
• I learned that heartbreak doesnt break you. Not really. It's hard, but you will get through it, all of us survivors promise you that.
• And I recently learned that no matter the mistakes they made, it wasn't my place to judge or distance. I am their friend and I will be there for them, as I hope they will be for me if I ever need it.

So here's to 2015. A year of seeing friends old and new, far and wide. To job interviews, adventures and goodbyes. 

And that will be the crux. While I cannot wait for my adventure to begin, saying farewell to the year I became who I am will be nothing compared to saying farewell to the people who made me who I am. I will be leaving my job behind - or more importantly, the people I work with. I'll be leaving behind any opportunity to jump on a train south and see my friends. I'll be leaving both my parents on their own - a difficult thing to comprehend and admit - and I'll be leaving my wonderful city.

But I'll be seeing the world. I'll be travelling a continent I fell in love with in 2013, learning how to say hello and thank you in a dozen different languages. I'll be popping down to Australia and visiting the brother in Sydney I miss every single day. I even plan to pop over to New Zealand and geek out in Hobbiton (yes I just admitted that.)

So I raise my glass (naturally with champagne in it) to all of you. Happy New Year to all you wonderful people. I wish you all the best in your own adventures, whether it be travel, work, a new family, school or just getting through the next uni term with money left over.

I thank you all for making 2014 the special year it was.

Time to open the front cover on a blank page, and while I sale shop for the things I need for my ADVENTURE OF A LIFETIME, I realise I've already started writing. I hope you do too.

Sarah x